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A* 

ILLUSTRATED GUIDE 

TO THE 

CURIOSITIES 

OP 

GEAYEN, 



GEOLOGICAL INTRODUCTION; NOTICES OF THE DIALECT; 
A LIST OF THE FOSSILS; AND A LOCAL FLORA; 



WILLIAM HOWSON. 



LONDON : 

WHITTAKER & Co., AVE MARIA LANE. 
WILDMAN, SETTLE. 

1850. 






Printed by J. Wildman,. New Street, Settle. 



\ 



Z7 2- 



As correct topographical information ought 
to be the principal feature in a Guide Book, 
discursive descriptions of scenery will not be 
found in the following pages ; but it is hoped 
that from the directions, the index, and the 
carefully constructed map, the tourist will 
be enabled to visit, conveniently and without 
disappointment, every object of interest in the 
district. 

The List of Fossils has been supplied by 
Mr. Joseph Jackson, of Settle, and enlarged 
from the researches of Mr. Gilbertson, in 
Bowland, communicated to Professor Philips. 
The Flora has received additions and cor- 
rection from John Tatham, of Settle. 

To Dr. Whittaker's Histories of Craven 
and Richmondshire, and to Philips' Geology 
of Yorkshire the Author is largely indebted. 

Alston, August, 12th, 1850, 



CONTENTS. 



INTRODUCTION Page vii 

SKIPTON. Chapter I 1 

BOLTON ABBEY. Chapter II ... 15 

MALHAM. Chapter HI 34 

SETTLE. Chapter IV 48 

HORTON. Chapter V 67 

INGLEBOROUGH. Chapter VI ... 85 

CRAVEN DIALECT 107 

LIST OF FOSSILS 119 

FLORA OF CRAVEN 124 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PLATES. 



Map of the Craven District. 
Gordale . . . Frontispiece 
Settle, from the South . . 48 
1 Douksrill Scar .... 69 



'Ingleborough, from Armistead 

Embankment, N. W. R. 
»Plan of Ingleborough Cave . 



85 



WOOD CUTS. 



Skipton Castle. Round Towers 1 

Wild Cow. GisburnPark . 14 

Bolton Abbey. East Window 15 

Waterfall. Bolton Park . . 33 

Malham Core .... 34 

Little Gordale .... 47 

Catterick Foss ... 48 
Diagram of Ebbing and Flowing 

Well 54 



Rocks near Attermire . . 58 

Roman Fibulos . . . 59 

Wigglesworth Spa Well . . 66 

Browgill Cave, looking back . 67 

HellenPot 84 

Bowder Stone. Norber . . 85 

Weathercote Cave . . .105 



INTRODUCTION. 



The district to which the following pages profess 
to be a Guide includes the greater part of the Deanery 
of Craven, and a portion of the Archdeaconry of 
Richmond, or, in other words, of nearly the whole 
of the Wapontake of Staincliffe, and a part of Ew- 
cross ; Horton in Ribblesdale, Clapham, Ingleton, 
and Thornton being in the latter Wapontake. Bingley, 
and parts of Addingham and Keighley are in Skirack, 
and a part of Dkley in Claro; the four latter are 
included in Craven by Dr. Whittaker, but are only 
incidentally mentioned in this volume. It may here 
be noticed that the derivations of Craven — British 
Craigvan, the district of rocks, and Staincliffe — Anglo 
Saxon Ston and Clyff, are nearly identical. 

This district has always held a high rank with 
regard to the attractive character of its scenery, 
and those peculiar natural features which invariably 



vm 



accompany the massive deposits and dislocations of 
mountain limestone ; and to the Geologist, the Min- 
eralogist, the Antiquarian, and the Botanist, as well 
as to the lover of Landscape, presents a field of no 
ordinary interest. 

With Craven commences that romantic series of 
Dales which characterize the greater part of the North 
of England, and include within their precints, not only 
that paradise of scenery, the Lakes, but many less 
known though scarcely less interesting localities : and 
now, not only the man of leisure and wealth, but the 
imprisoned denizen of the crowded town, and the 
toiling artizan will be enabled to visit these attractive 
places, for the newly-constructed railways, though they 
may encroach a little upon the retirement and pastoral 
character of the country, offer a facility of transit, 
which even the pedestrian is sometimes glad to avail 
himself of, and a cheapness and speed of which the 
poor in money or in time may reap the benefit. 

As the nature, character, and extent of the various 
strata which compose a district are so intimately 
connected with scenic effects, a sketch at least, of the 
Geology becomes a necessary part of the Topograph- 
er's task; a task in the present instance rendered 
comparatively easy by the accurate researches and 
admirable work of Professor Phillips on the Geology 
of Yorkshire. In the recognised order then the 
Grauwacke first claims attention. 



IX 



GRAUWACKE. 



The great mass of Grauwacke which forms Hougill 
and Casterton Fells is bordered on the east by the 
range of the Penine Fault, up to Kirkby Lonsdale, 
where the Penine turns suddenly to the E.S.E., and 
receives the name of the Craven Fault. Between this 
and another great line of Fault which is very con- 
spicuous from Giggleswick to Wharfedale, the slate 
stretches to beyond Ribblesdale, by Ingleton and 
Austwick, filling the lower part of Ingleton Fells, and 
the whole of the Horton valley up to Kibble Head. 
For miles in length the junction of the nearly level 
surface of the Grauwacke and the great plateau of 
lower scar Limestone which supports Whernside, 
Ingleborough, and Penyghent may be distinctly seen, 
and the fissures, joints, and laminae of the supporting 
slate, with the horizontal beds and vertical joints of 
the limestone are very striking. In its course from 
Kirkby Lonsdale the Grauwacke forms a remarkable 
hollow between the Limestone hills, reaches a height 
of seven hundred and fifty feet, three miles above 
Ingleton, and attains its highest elevation, one thousand 
one hundred and sixty six feet, under the south front 
of Moughton. In Casterton Fells it rises to a height 
of one thousand feet, and in Hougill Fells, two 

A 2 



thousand one hundred and sixty feet. In the latter 
Fells the peculiar scenic effects of the Grauwacke are 
well displayed ; there it forms high conical hills, with 
steep, smooth, and regular slopes, meeting in narrow 
and angular valleys, and covered with a green coarse 
herbage. Although narrow and depressed between the 
Craven Faults, its appearance beneath the horizontal 
Limestone at Moughton, Norber, Ingleton, and more 
especially at Thornton Foss, produces singular effects 
in the landscape. 

The great change of mineral character and structure 
between the Slates of Ingleton and Ribblesdale, along 
the same line of stratification is very remarkable ; and 
not less interesting is the spectacle of their complete 
overthrow to nearly vertical positions, and the subse- 
quent wearing down of their surface to a singularly 
even plane. 

In the blue roofing slates of Ingleton the cleavage 
planes present a constant course to the S.E., dipping 
slightly to the S.W., whilst cross joints run vertically 
to the N., and oblique joints dip to the N.E. Some 
of the cleavage planes are covered with arborescent 
films, and cubical crystals of iron pyrites are com- 
monly met with. 

Besides the dykes in connection with the Whin in 
Tynedale and Teesdale, two interposed igneous rocks 
only have been observed in Yorkshire, and these are 
at Ingleton ; the most distinct being only a few feet 



XI 



wide, and projecting like a wall from the left bank of 
the Greta about one hundred yards below the slate 
quarries. The composition of the stone is peculiar ; 
red felspar, occasionally in large masses, hornblende, 
and mica, sometimes in broad flakes ; it is commonly 
called greenstone, but more properly micaceous syenite. 
Its presence here leaves no doubt that the Faults were 
accompanied by igneous ejection. 

The Eibblesdale Slates, which correspond with the 
Builth Eocks of Sir E. Murchison's Silurian System, 
are widely expanded, and worked at many points, and 
perhaps a finer flag-stone is nowhere found. In the 
quarries under Moughton, on Swarth Moor, and at 
Studfold, the position and structure of the rock may be 
readily observed. Of the two sets of planes which 
divide the rock into rhomboidal prisms, the one, called 
spires, is very obvious, and separates the rock into 
tables of great extent and uniform thickness ; the 
other, more indistinct, is called hate, and may be 
considered to be the laminar structure, whilst the 
spires are the planes of stratification. It is quarried 
in a peculiar manner, with attention not only to the 
structure, but to the situation and dryness, and the 
joints, nodules, and limited depth of the tabular 
separations, &c. make the quarrying rather a hazardous 
speculation. The thickness of these rocks in Eibbles- 
dale is supposed to be not less than two miles. 



xu 



MOUNTAIN LIMESTONE. 



Philips divides this series into two general types by 
a line drawn through Kettlewell to Ryeloaf, and thence 
westwards to Lancaster, and he states his belief that 
this Line divides the oceanic from the littoral portion 
of the great limestone deposit. The following diagram 
is necessary in order to understand the two Series and 
their subdivisions. 



NORTHERN SERIES. 



Upper Group, 
(Yoredale Rocks 
of Philips) com- 
posed of 



Limestone. 
Coal. 

Laminated Grit. 
Limestone. 
Shale. 



SOUTHERN SERIES. 



ttt,™^ n^^rr. { Black laminated 
Upper Group. } Limest one & Shale 

Lower Group. | Nearly undivided. 



Lower Group, ( Partially divided 
(Scar Limestone) ( by shales. 



NORTHERN SERIES. 
Lower Group. 
Commencing with the widest expanse and greatest 
thickness (one thousand feet) of the lower scar Lime- 
stone, it is found to fill Kettlewell Dale from Buckden, 
it then turns up Littondale almost to its source/ and 
covering Hardflask, forms the general base of Fountains 
Fell, Scoska Moor, and Penyghent, thus uniting 
Wharfedale with Ribblesdale. The southern boundary 
of this great area passes along a line of dislocation from 



Xlll 



Threshfield to Malham, and, bending to the north 
round Ryeloaf, is continued to Settle. Its lofty escarp- 
ments then turn along the course of the Ribble as far as 
Stainforth, where the slate makes a deep indentation. 
Beyond, it again resumes its parallelism to the river, 
and three miles above Horton fills the whole valley. 
Again to the south and west it presents a great undu- 
lated floor of bare limestone rocks around the slopes 
of Ingleborough, and borders the valleys at Wharfe, 
Clapham, and Ingleton with magnificent and continuous 
scars. This vast range, together with the southern 
one which is traced by Giggleswick Scar, Feizor, 
Austwick, Newby, and Ingleton, marks the double line 
of dislocation, so well known by the name of the 
Great Craven Fault. 

Throughout this large area the Limestone rock is 
nearly undivided, and presents one vast calcareous mass 
four or five hundred feet thick, and this mighty range 
is but the edge of a plateau, which underlays the whole 
of the elevated region from Wharfedale to the valley 
of the Tyne. With regard to the extent of the dislo- 
cations caused by the Craven Faults, it is found that 
the northern drop is about three hundred feet, whilst 
the total depression under Ingleborough is not less 
than three thousand feet, about Settle one thousand, 
and it diminishes towards Grassington, where numer- 
ous other dislocations confuse but do not destroy its 
effects. The limestone beds are usually removed from 



XIV 



the axis of disturbance ; enough however can be seen 
to assure us that while the elevated beds rise slightly 
to the Fault, the depressed beds fall steeply to the 
south; they are no where vertical, and the angle 
of their inclination continually diminishes eastwards. 
From the point where the southern Fault becomes 
distinct in Giggleswick Scar there is a very violent 
southward dip of the depressed beds ; and at Feizor, 
Kirkby Fell, and Malham Moors the elevated beds 
rise slightly to this Fault. At Giggleswick the lower 
level Limestone is opposed to the inclined Millstone 
Grit of Ingleborough, indicating a slip of one thousand 
feet ; and the same is the case at Byeloaf and Brown 
Hill. 

Malham Tarn is on the line of the great southern 
slip, three hundred feet below the bold escarpement ; 
the Cove also is parallel to the southern Fault. The 
valley from Malham downwards is full of dislocations 
and varying dips, especially at Kirkby Malham, the 
general result being a dip of the depressed beds from 
the great Fault for one mile, and then a rise in the 
same direction, so as to expose a considerable tract of 
the Upper Craven Limestone about Calton, Otterburn, 
Coniston, and Eshton, thus connecting them with the 
range of Limestone by Flasby, Rylstone, and Burnsall. 
The hollow caused by the great southern slip reaches 
Wharfedale between Kilnsey and Threshfield, where it 
falls into another system of dislocations, having had an 



XV 



uninterrupted course from Northumberland to "VVharfe- 
dale, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles. 

It is the Lower Scar Limestone chiefly which gives 
to the district of Craven those marked features which 
must always interest the lover of landscape and the 
Geologist. It produces the characteristic scenery of 
Bolland, Wharfedale, Upper Airedale, and Eibblesdale. 
And the Scars along its southern edge rearing their 
barrier-fronts along the pastoral dales, form a magnifi- 
cent base and foreground for the lofty mountains whcih 
rise above them. 

In general, broad surfaces, mighty cliffs, frequent and 
deep clefts, chasms, and caves, constitute the typical 
character of this lower Limestone floor. To it Gordale 
owes all its magnificence, whilst other cascades, as 
Thornton and Scaleber, owe much of their distinctive 
features to the top of the fall only being guarded by a 
durable ledge of Limestone, and the lower parts filled 
with wasting argillaceous beds. The caves are most 
frequent where the Limestone is thickest, and not 
divided by shales or grits, and so elevated as to permit 
the water to pass down, or to justify the suspicion that 
in some former condition it may have passed. Though 
perhaps partly formed by igneous movements, they 
mainly owe their extent, enlargement, or modification 
to the eroding influence of springs and subterraneous 
streams. The joints and divisional planes which so 
numerously intersect the rock no doubt facilitate this 



XVI 



excavating process, and those which have a flat roof, 
indicating a divisional plane, are generally found to be 
the most roomy and of the greatest extent. 

Upper Group, or Yoredale Bocks. 

In the upper part of Wensleydale this series has the 
greatest degree of complexity, and attains the thickness 
of one thousand feet, and nearly the same particulars 
of complexity are found in Whernside. From Wens- 
leydale to Kibble Head the lower Limestone rises 
nearly two hundred feet, and becoming gradually 
thinner, the two rocks appear to unite in one crinoidal 
mass in the southern front of Cam Fell, over a mass of 
flagstones and plates. In Ingleborough this series is 
composed of about five hundred feet of plates and 
laminated grits, with Limestones and plates at the 
bottom ; and on this rests crinoidal Limestone, thirty 
feet thick, covered with alternating grits and plates ; 
and the whole is crowned with a pebbly millstone grit. 
In Penyghent, also, and Fountains Fell the main 
Limestone occurs under a cover of the same grit, 
surmounted by shales and flagstones, with coal, but 
there is no underset Limestone. 

Between the Craven Fault and Upper Wharfedale 
the Yoredale Series partially covers a large oval space 
of lower Limestone, which is much elevated, including 
Birks, Litton Hill, Baisgill Hag, Cam, Cosh Knot, 
Hardflask, Scoska, &c. 



XVU 



The variations in the series which compose the 
Yoredale rocks produce corresponding effects in the 
landscape. In general, the Limestones always project, 
argillaceous beds form straight, undulated, or obscure 
slopes, and the grit occasionally makes rough angular 
edges ; this latter indeed is so mixed with plate that it 
does not often assume the character which it does 
under more favourable circumstances. "Where the 
Yoredale series, by the extinction of its Limestone 
and some of its grits becomes wholly argillaceous, as 
in Ingleborough and Fountains Fell, the profile changes. 
Then the main and underset Limestones, conjoined or 
separately, project into their usual mural precipices, 
and below them there is an uniform slope of several 
hundred feet. In Bowland, and south of the Craven 
Fault, the Series being almost wholly shale, with 
interlaminated Limestones, presents only sloping sur- 
faces below the grit summits, and smooth rounded 
hills in all the large region between Eibblesdale and 
the border of the Yorkshire coalfield. Although the 
lower Limestone produces those grand escarpments 
which guard the dales, the facility of waste in the 
Yoredale Series has cleared their broad surfaces, 
formed many extensive denudations and insular hills, 
and is the cause of much of the grandeur and peculi- 
arity of the district. 



A 3 



XVU1 

SOUTHERN SERIES. 

Lower Limestone. 

The lower Limestone occupies a considerable extent 
of country in the vale of the Hodder, and in Bowland. 
It fills oval spaces in the midst of a mountain country 
whose higher parts are capped with millstone grit, and 
the intermediate slopes are formed with shales and 
grits. It is not from the lowness of this depressed 
part of Craven that the Limestone comes to day ; it is 
in fact uplifted, for the country S.W. of the Craven 
Fault has its own system of disturbances, consisting of 
anticlinal axes of convulsion, and whilst the northern 
dislocations are remarkable for sudden and violent 
fracture and partial displacement, the southern consist 
only of steep anticlinal ridges, causing a long system of 
parallel undulations and contortions, and giving to the 
district its most striking features. 

The principal mass of this Limestone shows itself in 
the Trough of Bowland, Whitewell, Downham, Rim- 
ington, Whalley, and Lothersdale. 

Upper Group. 
The dark laminated Limestone of Craven appears as 
much connected with the shale above as with the 
lower member of the mountain Limestone. It may be 
considered as the feeble representative of the Yoredale 
Series, all the interpolated terms of grit, shale, coal, 
&c, having disappeared. 



XIX 



An excellent section of these beds is seen in the 
quarry of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal near Thornton, 
where alternations of calcareous and argillaceous beds 
rest upon a thick mass of laminated and crinoidal 
Limestone. Similar beds occur at Gisburn, Broughton, 
in the quarries near Skipton and in Lothersdale, and in 
the valley between Skipton and Bolton Abbey. North 
of Skipton is another line of nearly parallel elevated 
Limestone, ranging from Flashy, by Craco and Burnsal, 
towards Nidderdale, and dipping distinctly beneath the 
grit summits of Bylstone and Flashy Fells. North- 
wards it expands largely up Kettlewell Dale and 
Langstrothdale, whilst in Littondale and at Kilnsey 
it joins the great Limestone plateau of Malham Moors. 
The thickness of the Limestone exposed between 
Kettlewell and Great "Whernside is about nine hundred 
feet. It is often liable to a local change into a 
crystallized yellowish rock, full of nodules and cells 
of calcareous spar ; in this state it is called by the 
miners "dun lime", and is said to destroy the produc- 
tiveness of the mineral veins. 

The shales, which represent the dismembered 
Yoredale Series, occupy a large area in the southern 
part of Craven ; extending east and west from Bolton 
Abbey to Bowland, and north and south from Byeloaf 
to Pendle. The best exhibitions of this series may be 
seen in the Trough of Bowland, on the West front of 
Pendle, in the Hodder near Stonyhurst, in the Leeds 



XX 



and Liverpool Canal near Colne, and in various parts 
of the Kibble between Clitheroe and Settle. It covers 
the Limestone ridges of Lothersdale, Skipton, and 
Craco, is rich in fossils at Flasby, curiously contorted 
at Bolton Abbey, and is almost universally found 
beneath the pastures in the lower and central parts of 
Craven. Its thickness in Pendle Hill and at Skipton 
is probably five hundred feet, and in Bowland more. 

COAL. 



The singular Coal field in the low valley of the Greta, 
between Ingleton and Burton, bears a complete analogy 
to the field on the South Tyne. Both are far detached 
from the large tracts to which they appear related; 
both range east and west, and both lie at the foot of an 
escarpment much older than themselves, and rest on 
the same rocks sunk by dislocation two hundred feet. 

The Ingleton bed is not a basin (as would at first 
sight appear) deposited after a dislocation, for the planes 
of stratification have only a north eastern dip, which is 
not the original position, but owing to the Faults making 
depressions to the south. It has only one outcrop to 
the south, and the northern edge is sunk deep, and 
terminates on the plane of the south Craven Fault. 
On the west, south, and east, the subjacent grit comes 
to the surface, and it is seen on the south and south 
west that in this insulated spot, two thousand feet 



XXI 



below the summit of Ingleborough, some of the lower 
strata of the far distant Lancashire and Yorkshire Coal- 
fields lie not only above the millstone grit of Penyghent 
and Ingleborough, but even above rocks usually several 
hundred feet above them in the scale of strata. At the 
Burton end the beds are not cut off by any Fault, but 
thin off to nothing. 

The dip of the Coal is N.E. uniformly ; charcoal, 
pyrites, ironstone, and abundance of vegetable remains 
are found in it, and it is remarkable that in the deep 
Coal there are two parallel layers of light blue pipe- 
clay, with a pure jet or Cannel Coal between them. 
From below, in the direction of Bolland, is a series of 
millstone grits and shales, enclosing near the bottom 
two Coal seams corresponding to that of Penyghent. 
They have been worked at Bentham, Mewith, Tatham, 
&c. From the various sections which have been made, 
it is found that the North Lancashire, Penyghent, and 
Fountains Fell Coals are identical, whilst the Ingleton 
Coal is analogous to the lower Coals of Wigan, and is 
of later date than the Great Yorkshire tracts. 



MILLSTONE GRIT. 



The Millstone Grit rests on the Yoredale series ; both 
consist of limestones, sandstones, shales, ironstones, and 
thin coal seams, but while limestones abound in the 
lower series, sandstones predominate in the upper, and 



XX11 



the limestones become almost obliterated. Their 
common boundary is thus not easy to be determined. 
In all the Bowland district above the limestone masses 
lies " one very thick shale group surmounted by a 
thick Gritstone group, and from the Lancaster side of 
Bowland it passes by an easy gradation to the more 
varied series of Grit on the west of the Lune, a series 
intermediate between those of Ingleborough and Bow- 
land. South of the Craven Faults is a narrow band of 
elevated Gritstone country, which from Giggleswick 
and Settle eastwards presents a singular rivalry to the 
limestone band between the Faults. Thus at Giggles- 
wick the Grit is opposed to the limestone, both one 
thousand feet; so Byeloaf, one thousand seven hundred 
and ninety five feet, opposes the limestones of Kirby 
Fell, one thousand eight hundred feet ; and the Grit of 
Brown Hill, one thousand two hundred fifty eight feet, 
meets the limestone of Boardley, one thousand three 
hundred and fifty two feet. It crowns most of the hills 
between Whernside in Ingleton Fells and Great and 
Little Whernside in Kettlewell dale, at the various ele- 
vations shown in the map, and ranging by Grassington 
exists in great force in Flasby, Bylstone, and Burnsall 
Fells, appears at the Strid and Bolton Bridge, and, on 
the southern bank of the Wharfe, from near Harewood 
to Skipton, forms the outcrop of the floor of the 
Great Yorkshire Coal Field. It is not to be supposed 
however, that this and the vast Gritstone areas of Nid- 



XX111 

derdale and Brimham are the same ; there are in fact 
two series, an upper and a lower, the several relations 
of which form an interesting subject of inquiry. 

The Millstone Grit is an important element in the 
scenery of the eastern and western boundaries and 
high summits of Craven. Its elevation and structure, 
and the coldness and humidity of the climate favour 
the growth of heath and sedgy grass, which almost 
extirpate other vegetation, and form a surface of dreary 
moorlands, far less serviceable to the agriculturist than 
much loftier hills of slate. It is generally concealed, 
except in torrents, where the edges are sometimes 
broken into bold craggy fronts, which from their 
wasting and ruinous appearance, are easily recognised 
from the enduring limestone scars. 

The New Red Sandstone and its member, the 
Magnesian Limestone, occupy a small area north of 
the Ingleton Coalfield. 

MINERAL PRODUCTIONS. 



It is evident from the local abundance of mineral 
veins in the neighbourhood of great lines of Fault, 
and their paucity in the undisturbed limestones, that 
they have a near connection with systems of dislocation. 
Accordingly we find that Mineral veins are frequent 
in Craven. Productive veins of Lead are found 
in Bowland, at "Whitewell, Grassington, Kettlewell, 



XXIV 

Arncliffe, Buckden, and Malham. In the mountain 
limestones occur the Sulphurets of Lead, Copper, Iron, 
and Zinc ; the Oxide of Iron ; and an Oxide of Zinc 
in the form of a white powder is found at Malham. 
At Grassington and Kettlewell there are productive 
ores of Lead both in the limestone ' and millstone 
grit. A green Phosphate of Lead is occasionally 
found on Grassington Moor. The Carbonate of Zinc, 
or Calamine, has been raised in the compact and 
pseudomorphous forms at Arncliffe, Kettlewell, and 
Malham, in large quantities. The Sulphuret of Iron, 
or Iron pyrites occurs plentifully in the slate quarries 
at Ingleton, and in some of the mines. Hydrous 
Peroxide of Iron, or Brown Hcematite is found among 
the broken stones and in the soil under Giggleswick 
Scar ; and Bog Iron ore, a variety of Hcematite, but of 
recent formation, has been found on Bleamoor. Iron- 
stone nodules intersected by Septa of Carbonate of 
Lime, called true Septaria, are found on Bathmell 
Moor, and more especially of great size and beauty in 
Kettlesbeck near Eldroth, where they have been washed 
out of the shale beds by the floods. Quartz in clear and 
regular but small crystals, is found plentifully in the 
hills above Settle, and darkly coloured with iron, on 
Giggleswick Scars. Calcareous Spar is abundant in 
the mineral veins, and the stalactite forms will be 
found in beautiful variety in most of the numerous 
caverns. 



of 

' and the 
f E/CHBO(/fi/NC D/ST/UCTS. 



WjrZizaas, Z&frjE&uir 




/LXL£Y 



X&CMJLEY 




Chapter I.— SKIPTON. 

TOWN — CASTLE— CHURCH — SCHOOL — ROUTES— ADDIXGHAM — 
ILKLEY — MARTON — GISBURN — BRACEWELL — MITTOX — 
B ARXOLDSWICK — SAWLEY — BOLTOX-IN-BOWLAND — GAR- 
GRATE— ESHTOX— RYLSTOXE — IXXS— CONVEYANCES. 

Skipton is an ancient market town situated in a 
pleasant and fertile valley, near the river Aire and the 
Leeds and Liverpool Canal. It consists chiefly of two 
broad streets, which are disposed in the form of the 
letter Y. At the head of the principal one of these, 
on a moderate elevation, stand the Castle and the 
Church. 



2 



At the time of the Norman Conquest Skipton formed 
a part of the possessions of Earl Edwin, one of the 
Saxon Barons ; but in conformity with the general 
policy of the Conqueror, the demesnes were granted to 
Robert de Romille, a Norman adventurer of ancient 
family. He built the Castle, and probably founded 
the Church about the latter end of William's reign. 
Subsequently the Barony of Skipton came by marriage 
into the Albermarle family, but it was afterwards 
vested in the Crown by a dishonourable artifice of 
Edward I. 

Edward II on coming to the throne bestowed 
Skipton on his favorite Piers Gaveston, who lived to 
enjoy it but a short time, and the next alienation 
transferred it to the Clifford family, who, with the 
exception of a single attainder, held it upwards of 
500 years. The attainder here mentioned occurred in 
the 1st year of Edward IV to Lord John Clifford ; he 
took a most active part in the civil wars of the period 
on the Lancasterian side, and was killed the day before 
the battle of Towton. The attainder was reversed in 
the 1st year of Henry VII, and the Barony restored 
to his son Henry.* 

By the marriage of Lady Margaret Sackville, daugh- 
ter of Lady Anne Clifford, Countess of Pembroke, to 
John Tufton, Earl of Thanet, in 1629, the manor and 

* See Barden Tower. 



castle descended to, and is still possessed by, that 
family. 

Of the Castle, as built at the period of the conquest, 
little remains except the western doorway to the inner 
castle, consisting of a treble semicircular arch, supported 
on square piers. Of subsequent erections, the most 
ancient part of the castle now remaining consists of 
seven round towers, partly in the sides and partly in 
the angles of the building, connected by rectilinear 
apartments, which form an irregular quadrangular court 
within. The present entrance, which conceals the 
original Norman doorway, was added by Lady Pem- 
broke ; and the eastern wing, a single range of building 
terminated by an octagon tower, was built by the 1st 
Earl of Cumberland, for the reception of his daughter- 
in-law, Lady Eleanor Brandon. 

The walls are from nine to twelve feet thick, and 
were the work of Kobert de Clifford, in the reign of 
Edward II ; in the wall on the south are the remains 
of a large round tower ; and the gateway itself, which 
opens into the town, has four large round towers, which 
appear to have been beaten down about half way, and 
repaired again. Over the arch are the arms of Henry 
Lord Clifford, and the pierced battlement has on one 
side the inscription 

Georgii meritum marmore perennius, 
and on the other the family motto 
DESORMAIS. 



The northern wall stands on the brink of a rock, from 
the base of which to the battlements is a height of 
200 feet, 

The remains of the old castle Chapel at the west 
end of the Bailey, are now converted into a stable. 

Admission into the interior of the castle may be 
obtained by application to the steward, at the higher 
castle-house. Here the uninhabited parts are in a 
state of decay. In the second round tower was the 
muniment room of the Cliffords. In the octagon 
tower are two rooms adorned with tapestry in a good 
state of preservation ; from the casement of the upper 
one, as well as from the top of the battlements, an 
extensive view of the town and surrounding country is 
obtained. 

The apartments formed about a century ago out of 
the gallery contain several portraits, in no very good 
state of repair, the most remarkable of which is the 
large historical family picture, painted and inscribed 
under the direction of Lady Pembroke, assisted, ac- 
cording to tradition, by Sir Matthew Hale. 

Skipton castle, although to all appearance incapable 
of maintaining any long defence against a besieging 
army, has, nevertheless, on account of its importance 
and the military character of its owners, withstood 
several sieges ; but it appears never to have suffered 
any material injury until the time of the parliamentary 
war ; it then sustained a blockade for the almost 



incredible period of three years against the Parliament- 
ary Generals, Lambert, Poyntz, and Rossiter. 

After the surrender of the fortress in December, 
1645, the Parliament issued an order for its demolition, 
which was partially carried into effect, but the Countess 
of Pembroke, the restorer " of the old waste places" 
afterwards repaired and again made it habitable, and 
over the modern entrance there is her inscription to com- 
memorate this restoration of the house of her fathers. 

There is every reason to believe that the Church at 
Skipton was founded at the same time as the Castle, 
by Robert de Eomille ; and although no part of the 
original structure remains, yet four stone seats with 
pointed arches and cylindrical columns, now in the 
south wall of the nave, may be referred to the earlier 
part of the 13th century. The roof, which cannot be 
older than the time of Henry VIII, is fiat, and 
extremely handsome. The screen bears the date 1533, 
the 25th of Henry VIII. 

Beneath the altar is the vault of the Cliffords, the 
place of their interment from the dissolution of Bolton 
Priory to the death of the last Earl of Cumberland. 
Dr. Whittaker obtained leave in 1803 to examine 
this vault, and had the satisfaction, if such it were, of 
tracing, with more or less accuracy, the lineaments and 
mode of sepulture of the occupants of this tomb of the 
great and noble, all the bodies except one having been 
embalmed. 

B 2 



The brasses on the grey marble tomb of Henry 1st 
Earl of Cumberland and Margaret his wife were stolen 
during the civil wars, but their place was afterwards 
supplied with lengthy inscriptions by Lady Pembroke ; 
this was also the case with the small tomb to the 
memory of an infant son of George the third Earl. 
On the south side of the communion table is a tomb of 
black marble, enclosed within iron rails, and erected by 
the pious Countess to the memory of her father the 
above mentioned third Earl. Around the sides of this 
tomb there is such a group of noble armorial bearings 
as cannot perhaps be found on the tomb of any other 
Englishman. 

There is a library, chiefly consisting of ancient books, 
in the Church, left by Sylvester Petyt for the use of 
the parish. 

The town of Skipton enjoys the benefit of a Free 
Grammar School founded in the reign of Edward VI by 
William Ermystead ; it possesses an income of nearly 
i?600 a year, and gives two exhibitions to Christ's 
College, Cambridge. 

About a quarter of a mile from the Devonshire 
Hotel are some baths, with grounds tastefully laid out ; 
there is also a sulphurous spring, called Skipton Spa. 



ROUTES. 

Through Draughton and Addingham to Dkley, nine 
miles. 



At Addingham is one of the neatest churches in 
Craven, having been repaired and beautified in 1757, 
at a time when churchwardens and parishioners were 
content to retain the form and outline of their ancient 
churches. 

Ilkley is the Koman Olicana of Ptolemy, and the 
similarity of the ancient and modern names is worthy 
of notice. The Roman fortress, of which the outline 
on three sides is entire, was situated on a steep and 
lofty bank, having the Wharf on the North, and a 
brook on the East and West, and the Southern bound- 
ary coincided with the present street. Remains of 
brick, glass, earthenware, &c. have frequently been 
found on the edges of the slope. The Roman altar 
dedicated to Verbeia, the deified Wharfe, is now at 
Middleton Lodge. On the heights surrounding Ilkley 
are several encampments, (castra (estiva or explora- 
toria,) one on Castleberg, two on Counterhill, and 
another on Woofa bank; in the first an urn and a 
copper key two feet long were found, and in the latter 
a number of rude stone fire places filled with ashes. 
In the Church may be noticed the tomb and recumbent 
statue of Sir Adam de Midelton, and in the yard are 
the remains of three ancient and beautiful crosses, 
conjectured by Camden to be Roman, and by Dr. 
Whittaker to be Saxon, and not sepulchral, but early 
objects of veneration, in allusion to the mystery of the 
Holy Trinity. Ilkley has long been noted as a water- 



8 



ing place ; the springs have no medicinal properties, 
and are simply remarkable for their extreme coldness. 
Near to Ilkley are the Hydropathic Institution, and 
the Hotel and beautiful grounds of Ben Bhydding. 



Through Broughton, Marton, Gisburn, and Sawley 
to Bolton-in-Bowland, seventeen miles. 



Near to Broughton is Broughton Hall, the residence 
of Sir Chas. Tempest ; and near West Marton are 
Marton Hall, once the residence of the Hebers, the 
ancient family to which the celebrated Bishop Heber 
belonged, and Gledstone Hall, the seat of Kichard H. 
Boundhill, Esq. At Gisburn, a small but pleasing town 
on the east bank of the Bibble is, Gisburn Park, the 
property of Lord Bibblesdale ; here there is a herd of 
wild cattle, the descendents of the indigenous race 
which once ranged the Lancashire forests ; they are 
never thoroughly tamed, although they breed freely 
with tame cattle. With the exception of the tip of the 
nose, the ears, and feet, their colour is generally pure 
white. On the high bank of the Bibble are the 
remains of a small square fort, called Castle Hough, 
and near it an ancient barrow. 

At Bracewell, a small village two miles East of 
Gisburn are the ruins of two Halls. The one was the 
principal residence of the Tempests, and was the only 
specimen of a considerable brick building in Craven. 



The other has been a mansion of still older date, and 
is said to have been one of the temporary retreats of 
Henry VI. 

MiTTON, near the junction of the Hodder and the 
Ribble, is a parish partly only in Craven. In the 
Church is a beautiful group of sepulchral statues and 
monuments of the Sherburne family. (See Wiggles- 
worth. ) 

At Barnoldswick, four miles S. E. of Gisburn, on 
the margin of a brook to the west of the village, are 
the indistinct remains of a monastery begun by Henry 
de Lacy in 1147 ; after a duration of six years it was 
abandoned for Kirkstall, owing to the ravages of the 
Scots, and the bad climate, as the monks averred. 

At Sawley are the ruins of a monastery founded in 
1147 by William de Percy, and first occupied by an 
abbot and twelve monks, who migrated from Fountains' 
Abbey. At the Dissolution the demesnes were granted 
to Sir Arthur Darcy, and from him, by sale and 
otherwise, the property has descended to Earl de Grey. 
The Church has been a plain cross without columns, 
side aisles, or chapels, but a miserable ruin of the nave 
and transept only is left standing ; the gateway has 
been converted into a cottage, and in the walls of 
several of the neighbouring houses may be seen remains 
of the Abbey, and shields of the Percys, Tempests, 
Lacys, Hamertons, &c. During the last year Earl de 
Grey has caused great quantities of rubbish and fallen 



10 



ruins to be cleared away, and has brought to light the 
bases of columns, several tombs, and a variety of most 
interesting antiquarian discoveries. 

A mile and a half from Sawley is BOLTON HALL, 
said to be the oldest mansion in Craven ; it was the 
residence of the ancient family of the Pudsays, who 
held the property from the time of Edward III. 
Here Sir Ralph Pudsay sheltered Henry VI after the 
battle of Hexham, and a spoon, boot, and glove left 
by him are still preserved at the Hall. One mile 
up the Ribble from Bolton Hall is a steep rock called 
Rainsber Scar, down which one of the Pudsays is said 
to have leaped when pursued. In the woods, half 
a mile above this scar is a cave of considerable pro- 
portions. The scenery about the Hall is exceedingly 
interesting, and the village of Bolton is very pleasing. 
The Church is a handsome structure of late Gothic 
architecture, with some small remains of the original 
edifice. Within the church is a most remarkable tomb 
of a Pudsay and his three wives ; at the feet of each 
of these are numerals indicating the number of their 
respective children, viz., six, two, and seventeen. 
Beneath the figures of the parents are those of the 
twenty-five children, with their names annexed, but 
almost defaced. The name of the father is not recorded, 
but he is supposed to have been the Sir Ralph above- 
mentioned. 



11 



Through Gargrave, Eshton, and Airton to Malham, 
eleven miles. 

Through Flasby, Hetton, Cracow, and Threshfield 
to Kilnsey, fourteen miles. 

From Bell Busk station to Malham, five miles. 



The two former pedestrian routes are not very 
interesting, and the tourist will find the Bell Busk, 
or more especially the Settle station on the North 
Western Railway the most convenient point from 
which he may visit the various objects and places of 
interest in the neighbourhood of Malham, Settle, 
Horton, &c. 

Gargrave is the most central parish in Craven. 
The bold and rocky scenery peculiar to the limestone 
of Craven is here wanting, but its place is supplied by 
the verdure of woods, knolls, and meadows. There is 
a tradition that there were once seven churches in 
Gargrave but that six were destroyed by the Scots in 
one of their incursions, the present being spared because 
it was dedicated to their patron saint St. Andrew. Half 
a mile from the village is a place called Kirk Sink, 
where a tesselated pavement was found in 1750, it was 
opened by Dr. Whittaker in 1820, the size of the 
apartments determined, and floor tiles found ; he states 
it to have been the villa of some wealthy Roman, or 
provincial who emulated Roman elegance. 

EsHTON HALL is perhaps the most handsome and 



12 



imposing mansion in Craven. " It's situation is most 
favourable, being on the slope of a hill, having a gentle 
foreground of verdure terminated by the dark tinted 
mountain of Elso ; immediately to the east is a noble 
barrier of wood, with a rapid trout stream at its base, 
whilst the west is all open landscape, combining every 
variety of wood, hill, and dale." Eshton Hall has 
successively belonged to the De Estons, the Earls of 
Cumberland, and the Bindlosses, from whom it was 
purchased by the present owner, Matthew "Wilson, 
Esq. In the Dining Room is a collection of paintings 
by Raffael, Vandyke, Reubens, Guido, Poussin, and 
several of the Dutch masters. The magnificent library 
of 15,000 volumes is contained in three rooms, and is 
peculiarly rich in the Natural Sciences, Topography, 
History, and in well preserved manuscripts. Above 
the Hall is St. Helen's Well, a most copious spring, 
which is said never to vary in wet or dry seasons. 
Beyond is one of the two natural lakes of Craven, 
Eshton Tarn ; it appears to have been, at some period, 
considerably larger, but it is now somewhat less than a 
mile in circumference ; it abounds in pike. 

Flasby Hall, the seat of Cooper Preston, Esq., is 
picturesque in situation, and stands amidst grounds 
tastefully laid out. 

Near Hetton, on the right, is Rylstone. The 
Manor House was the residence of the Nortons, whose 
lands were situated in the centre of the Clifford 



13 



demesnes ; there .were consequently many family con- 
tentions and frays between the two. On the highest 
point of Rylstone Fell are the remains of a square 
tower erected by Richard Norton, and on the slope of 
a neighbouring hill may still be traced the outlines of a 
pound, in which he was in the habit of entrapping the 
deer of the Cliffords. On the attainder of Rd. Norton 
for the part which he took in the insurrection of the 
Earls of Northumberland and Westmorland, the estates 
were granted to the Cliffords. • It was at this time that a 
white doe is said to have long continued to make a 
pilgrimage from Rylstone to the church yard of Bolton 
every sabbath, and return home after service, the 
tradition that has now become so generally known 
through Wordsworth's " White Doe of Rylstone". 
The Chapel, whose original structure is as old as 
Stephen, resembles a parish church, having a tower, 
choir, and side aisles. 

Near Threshfield is Netherside House, late the 
residence of Mrs. Nowell. 

Here the tourist enters on the widening and fertile 
valley of the Wharfe, and may pursue his way north- 
wards to Kilnsey and Kettlewell, or to the south by 
Burnsall to Barden Tower and Bolton Abbey. (See 
Chap. II.) 



14 

To Bolton Bridge, six miles. 
To the Abbey, seven miles. 
Through Embsay to Barden, six miles. 



Inns at Skipton, the Devonshire Hotel, and the 
Black Horse. 




J 



15 




Chapter II.— BOLTON ABBEY. 

EMBSAY — BOLTON — ROUTES — HALL — ABBEY — STRID — WATER- 
FALL — VALLEY OF DESOLATION — ROUTES — BARDEN — 
BURNSALL — APPLETREWICK — THORPE — TROLLER 7 S GILL 
— KILNSEY — ■ DOUKERBOTTOM — GRASSINGTON — LITTON- 
DALE — KETTLEWELL — LANGSTROTHDALE — INNS. 

At Embsay, two miles N.E. from Skipton, a mo- 
nastery was founded in 1120 by AYm. de Meschines and 
Cecilia* his wife, and dedicated to St. Cuthbert and St. 



* Daughter of Robert de Romille who founded Skipton Castle. 



16 



Mary. The only remains of this priory is a Well., 
known by the name of St. Cuthbert's, behind a house 
which has been built on its site. It continued at 
Embsay thirty three years, and was then, according to 
tradition, translated to Bolton by Adeliza de Komille, 
the daughter of Wm. de Meschines, on the following 
account. 

" In the deep solitude of the woods betwixt Bolton and 
Barden, the Wharf suddenly contracts itself in a rocky 
channel little more than four feet wide, and pours 
through the tremendous fissure with a rapidity propor- 
tioned to its confinement. This place was then, as it 
is now, called the Strid, from a feat often exercised by 
persons of more agility than prudence, who stride from 
brink to brink, regardless of the destruction that 
awaits a faltering step. Such was the fate of Adeliza 
de Romille's* only son ; — as he was inconsiderately 
bounding over the chasm with a greyhound in his leash, 
the animal hung back, and drew his unfortunate master 
into the torrent." To commemorate this tragic end of 
the " Boy of Egremond," the last hope of the house of 
Bomille, the widowed mother chose the beautiful banks 
of the Wharfe for the translation of the Embsay 
Priory. 



* Adeliza de Romille was married to "William Fitz Duncan, 
grand nephew of David, King of Scotland, but adopted her 
mother's name. Their son was called the boy of Egremond 
from one of his grandfather's Baronies. 



17 



This is the common tradition, but Whittaker finds 
from the Monasticon Anglicanum that this son of the 
second foundress was himself a party and witness to 
the charter of translation. The story may refer to a 
son of Cecilia the first foundress, as she is known to 
have had two, both of whom died young. 

The ruins of Bolton Abbey stand upon a beautiful 
curvature of the "lordly Wharfe", on a level sufficiently 
high to protect it from floods, and low enough for every 
purpose of picturesque effect. As a ruin it is perhaps 
equal to any in the kingdom, if its only defect, the 
want of a tower, be excepted ; and for surrounding 
scenery and beauty of site it has not an equal. 

To the south is the embrochure of the valley with 
its rich meadow lands, its woods and homesteads ; to 
the right is the impetuous Wharfe, flowing beneath a 
wood of oaks, mingled with steep shelving ground and 
jutting grey rocks stained with many-hued lichens, and 
festooned with heather and ivy ; — woods to the left — 
to the north the eye is delighted with a park-like ex- 
panse, and beyond are those aged and noble groves that 
hang over the rocky river, as the valley gradually 
narrows, and farther yet are the barren and rugged 
heights of Simon Seat and Barden Fell, contrasting 
well with the fertility and luxuriant foliage beneath. 

In walking from Bolton Bridge to the Abbey, to the 
south east will be noticed Beamsley Beacon on the edge 
of Blubber Fell, from which it is said that York 

c 2 



18 



Minster may be seen on a favourable day. On the left 
of the path is a large field in which tradition says that 
Prince Rupert encamped amidst the rising corn on his 
way to Marston Moor. 

The guide's house is about a quarter of a mile from 
the Devonshire Arms. All the gates leading into the 
woods are kept locked, but any person not wishing to 
have a guide, may, upon inserting his name in a book 
kept for that purpose at the guide's house, be furnished 
w r ith a key on any day except Sunday. 

It is almost impossible to visit all the points of view 
and objects of interest at Bolton in one day. Several 
different routes may be taken, two of which shall be 
here pointed out. 

The one from the Holme Terrace, by the Hall, the 
Abbey, the Strid, Devonshire Seat, to the Valley of 
Desolation. The return being by Park Gate Seat, and 
the footpath through the fields to the Devonshire Arms. 

The other along the eastern bank of the Wharfe, 
Skiphouse- wheel Seat, Burlington Seat, Pembroke Seat, 
Lady Harriet's Seat, Cavendish Seat, and Hartington 
Seat, to the Abbey. 

The Holme Terrace is close to the Guide's house, 
and from thence the visitor will reach Bolton Hall, the 
occasional residence of the Duke of Devonshire. It is 
a strong square castellated building of late Gothic 
architecture ; it was originally the gateway of the priory, 
and the only one of the offices which escaped the 






19 



general wreck of the Dissolution. The western door 
was walled up, and in the eastern entrance was inserted 
a gothic window, most probably taken from some part 
of the ruins, and the gateway has thus been converted 
into a handsome groined and vaulted apartment. 

Opposite the Hall is the new west front of the Abbey. 
From the two noble buttresses which flank the erection, 
it has evidently been intended for the foundation of a 
magnificent tower ; it was begun, as appears from an 
inscription over the entrance, in 1520, by Prior Moone, 
and unfinished in 1540, the period of the Dissolution. 
Though this erection conceals the more elaborate and 
elegant doorway of the old west front, it is itself a 
beautiful specimen of architecture, and the north and 
south walls are not built so close to the old front as to 
prevent an experienced eye from tracing out nearly the 
whole of the basement, arches, niches, &c, as they 
appeared before this erection. Turning to the left the 
two windows on the west side of the north transept 
are seen, robbed of their mullions, and nearly filled 
with luxuriant ivy, 

" Clasping the grey rents with a verdurous woof ;" 
and behind them rises the eastern wall of the choir. 
The east window is fine and expansive, and has been 
beautifully ramified, and, when full of stained glass, 
must have produced a magnificent effect in the interior 
of the choir. 

On the southern side of the choir are the remains of 



20 



a chantry, opening into it by an ornamental arch. 
Under this is the mouth of a vault, now choked up with 
rubbish, but known to have extended nearly across the 
choir, and this, it is conjectured, was the resting place 
of the Cliffords, the Lords of Skipton, and the Patrons 
of the monastery. In 1828 a quantity of rubbish was 
removed, and a flag of grey marble exposed ; on digging 
a few feet lower a large and perfect skeleton was found ; 
the skull was covered with a profusion of light hair, 
and the teeth were entire. It is supposed to have been 
the body of John Lord Clifford, who was slain at the 
battle of Meaux in the tenth of Henry V. 

The eastern wall of the south transept is still stand- 
ing ; of the two windows, the tracery in one is nearly 
entire, and there is an imperfect pinnacle at the end yet 
remaining. 

Under the southern wall of the nave was the cloister, 
part of whose capitals and a few columns are still seen. 
On this side also stood the chapter-house, the refectory, 
kitchen, dormitory, and other offices, but these are not 
now to be traced. The small arch under the transept 
has been the passage from the cloister to the chapter- 
house. 

On the site of these lost ruins a beautiful residence 
was built by the Hon. Robert Boyle, to whom also 
Bolton and the neighbouring townships are indebted 
for the foundation of a free Grammar School. The late 
incumbent, the Rev. ¥m. Carr, by whose well known 



21 



taste many of the attractions of the spot have been 
called into notice, was the occupier of this picturesque 
residence. 

In the interior of the choir are nine niches on each 
side, -which were the stalls of the monks, and above 
them is a series of arches with a profusion of varied 
capitals. Beyond these is a lower tier of stalls for the 
Conversi, and on the south side of the altar are four 
stalls with carved bases for the officiating priests. 

The surrender of Bolton Abbey, by Richard Moone 
the prior, and fourteen canons, took place January 29th, 
1540. After this it remained in the King's hands till 
April 1542, when the site and demesnes, together with 
many other estates were sold to Henry Earl of Cum- 
berland for #2490, a sum less than ten years' purchase 
upon the low rental of that time. 

Through the interest of the Earl the nave of the 
church was probably spared, and a wall immediately 
erected to detach it from the transepts and choir. It is 
still used as a parochial chapel, and is in a state of 
excellent repair. The pews are of modern date, but 
the roof is ancient, massive, and beautiful. The screen 
was most probably removed from the entrance to the 
choir. A few feet below the base of the windows is 
the Triforium, which passes from the west end, and has 
communicated with the dormitory. 

In the north aisle, which is separated from the 



22 



nave by several different columns, are three beautiful 
windows with various fragments of stained glass. 

The new western porch with its ramified window 
appearing through the windows of the present church 
has a singular and solemn effect. 

The demesnes of Bolton remained in the Clifford 
family till 1635, when they were transferred by 
marriage to the last Earl of Burlington, and thence 
again to the Duke of Devonshire, in whose family the 
property still remains. 

Dr. Whittaker is of opinion that the establishment 
at Bolton consisted of more than 200 persons, a state- 
ment which he fortifies by the following account of one 
year's provisions. 323 quarters of Flour, 231 of Meal, 
411 of Provender for Horses, 636 of Oats for Ale, 
80 of Barley, 1000 gallons of Wine, 64 Oxen, 35 Cows, 
140 Sheep, 69 Pigs, 113 stones of Butter, besides a 
large quantity of Venison, Fish, Spiceries, &c. For 
further details of the household economy of the monks 
the reader must be referred to Dr. Whittaker's minute 
and interesting account. 

On passing the west front of the abbey the road is 
regained, and a walk of a mile will bring the visitor to 
a wooden bridge over the Wharfe, upon crossing which, 
a stone on the left marked F. D. shows the height to 
which a flood reached in 1815. A footpath to the left 
leads to Lud's Cave, and the broadest part of the river 



23 



between Bolton and Barden. After pursuing the river's 
side to Lud-stream Seat, and crossing the bridge over 
Possforth Beck, the Strid is reached.* 

From thence the visitor may proceed along the river 
to a point opposite the mouth of Barden Beck, where 
he will obtain an excellent view of Barden Tower, t 
from whence he may return by the Oak, Clifford, Strid, 
and Boyle-ford Seats, up Possforth Beck to Lawn Seat, 
Buck-rake Seat, and the Devonshire Seat, and from 
thence a few hundred yards will bring him to the 
cascade. This fall, although not of any great perpen- 
dicular height, is widely broken ; the large stunted oaks, 
the chaotic appearance of the bed of the stream, and 
the beetling rocks on the summit of the upper park 
present an interesting scene. The Valley of Desolation 
extends for half a mile beyond the cascade ; here the 
tortuous course of the stream over, broken fragments of 
rock, the precipitous banks, the scanty herbage, and the 
fantastic appearance of a number of dead or uprooted 



* In 1828 this dangerous place engulphed another victim. 
A young lady ran with haste to the very edge of the rocks, and 
looting with eagerness at the boiling torrent below, suddenly 
exclaimed, " I am going, I am going." It is supposed she 
became giddy, for she instantly fell into the foaming gulf, and a 
desperate attempt made to save her by a gentleman of the party 
was ineffectual. 

t The derivation of Barden — Bar, a Boar, and Den, a valley 
would seem to intimate that these animals were once denizens of 
the woods. 



24 



trees well entitle this spot to the name of Desolation. 
All this havoc is said to have been caused by a terrific 
thunderstorm some years ago. At the top of the 
valley there is another but smaller cascade ; from this 
the visitor may return by the east side, and across 
the park to Park-gate Seat, and on the way a sight may 
be obtained of the herd of red deer, almost the only 
one remaining in England. 

After lingering at the last-mentioned Seat, as every 
lover of the grand and beautiful in scenery will be dis - 
posed to do, the wooden bridge may be re-crossed, and 
the Devonshire Arms reached by a footpath through 
the fields. 

Bolton Bridge, like "Wakefield and many other 
bridges, had anciently a chapel for the benefit of tra- 
vellers. In the lower room of a cottage that stood at 
the west end of the bridge, was the following curious 
inscription on one of the beams ; it had not improbably 
been taken from the chapel. 

" &Jjmr pt passajs taj; qifi man 
<te %n Mm jrm iljmfl sag," 

To pursue the second route through the woods this 
bridge must be crossed, and the first gate on the left 
leads to a Seat under a large elm on the river's bank. 
The next Seat, a circular one round an oak, is Skip- 
house- wheel Seat, and may be reached by two paths ; 
the one to the right following the beaten track through 
the field — the other to the left, winding round the base 



i 



25 



of a rock, and ascending by a flight of rude steps. 
After passing the Waterfall bridge the next Seats are 
Cat-crag, Prior's, and Prior's-stone Seats ; near this 
latter several grave-stones were once found. From 
thence there is a bridge over Noscow Gill, but by 
following a footpath to the left Burlington Seat may 
be reached ; thence by Simon's Seat, St. Bridget's 
Seat, and over the wooden bridge to Pembroke Seat. 
From this point the best view of Barden Tower is 
obtained ; a rocky island divides the Wharfe into two 
channels ; it is fringed with wood or meadow on both 
sides, and the forest trees are seen towering up to the 
very base of the ruin. After leaving Pembroke Seat, 
there are Lady Harriet's, the Cavendish, Lady Georgi- 
an's, and Hartington Seats. The view from this latter 
Seat embraces almost every object that can constitute 
a perfect landscape, and is generally allowed to present 
the most lovely of the many lovely scenes in Bolton 
woods. 



ROUTES. 

To Harrogate, sixteen miles. 

To Ilkley, five miles. 

Through Barden, Burnsall, and Threshfield to Kiln- 
sey, fourteen miles. 

Kilnsey to Kettlewell, three miles. 



Barden. — On the reversion of the attainder of Lord 

D 



26 



John Clifford, his son Henry, (called the Shepherd,) 
emerged from the fells of Cumberland, where he had 
been concealed twenty-five years. His retired habits 
leading him to prefer the retreat of Barden, he con- 
verted what was then merely a forester's lodge into a 
convenient dwelling, and spent there the greater part 
of an innocent and peaceful life. He appears to have 
employed himself in the study of astronomy, and 
chemistry, or rather alchemy, and to have been assisted 
in these amusements by the monks of Bolton. In 
1513, when nearly sixty years of age, he was appointed 
to a high command in the army which fought at 
Flodden. The enumeration of his followers, in the 
old metrical history of Flodden Field is local and 
exact. 

11 From Penigent to Pendle Hill, 
From Linton to Long Addingham, 
And all that Craven coasts did till, 
They with the lusty Clifford came ; 
All Staincliffe hundred went with him, 
"With striplings strong from Wharledale, 
And all that Hauton hills did climb, 
With Langstroth eke and Littondale, 
"Whose milk- fed fellows, fleshy bred, 
Well browned with sounding bows upbend ; 
All such as Horton Fells had fed 
On Clifford's banner did attend." 

At Flodden he showed that neither his age nor habits 
of peace had chilled the hereditary military genius of 
the Cliffords. He survived the battle ten years, and 
died in 1523. 



n 



When the Countess of Pembroke came to her in- 
heritance, Barden Tower appears to have been a ruin, 
for its restoration by her is recorded in an inscription 
still legible over the principal entrance. She kept 
possession till her death in 1676, when it became the 
the property of the Earls of Burlington. Within the 
last eighty years the lead and timbers of the roof have 
been removed, and the building has now put on the 
form of a picturesque ruin. The Chapel, however, a 
plain building, is still in repair, and used as a place of 
worship. 

A quarter of a mile from the tower, on the road 
leading to Burnsall, there is a bridge and a gate on the 
right, leading to a Seat which commands an excellent 
view of the valley and river southwards, and a little 
further on is a picturesque waterfall called Gill Beck. 
The road, when regained, winds round the hill of 
Westside, and commands a fine view to the right of 
the wide valley, the winding Wharfe, and the mountain 
of Whernside. 

At Burnsall, the Church, a handsome and uniform 
structure, has two medieties. At the entrance of the 
choir each rector has his stall and pulpit, and between 
the church-yard and the river stand the two parsonage 
houses. Here there is a Free School founded by Sir 
Wm. Craven ; he was born at Appletrewick of poor 
parents, but in London raised himself from obscurity 
to wealth ; his son became the first Earl of Craven. 



28 



Near the extremity of the village is a copious spring, 
remarkable for having preserved its original dedicatory 
name, Thruskell, t. e. the fountain of Thor. 

In a pasture above the hamlet of Thorpe, a mile and 
a half from Threshfield, is a cave called Knave Knoll 
Hole ; the entrance to it is narrow and difficult of 
access ; human and other bones have been found in it, 
and like many other caves in Craven it has no doubt 
been the resort of ancient banditti. 

Near Appletrewick is Troller's Gill, the termination 
of a wild and solitary valley. It is a winding and 
nearly perpendicular fissure in the limestone rock, half 
a mile in length, a few yards wide, and generally nearly 
sixty feet in height. In an old survey of the manors 
of Robert de Clifford, Gordale in Appletrewick is men- 
tioned ; this is probably the place meant. 

Kilnsey is chiefly a place of resort for the lovers of 
angling, during the season ; but to the tourist in search 
of the picturesque it is by no means destitute of 
attraction. The few houses that compose the village 
and the antique remains of Kilnsey Hall are beautifully 
grouped together at the foot of the steep hills, and the 
view of the rich meadows watered by the winding 
Wharfe is peculiarly pleasing. 

The most remarkable object, however, is the range 
of rock called Kilnsey Crag. Eising abruptly from 
the green sward it presents a singular instance of that 
boldness of front and outline which characterizes the 






29 



limestone ranges. The whole face of the rock leans 
forward, and the huge beetling mass of the summit, as 
it overhangs the base nearly forty feet, imparts to the 
cliff an appearance at once curious and imposing. The 
height is about one hundred and seventy feet. 

Immediately behind Kilnsey Crag, at a distance of 
about two miles, is Doukerbottom Cave. The place is 
very difficult to find, but Trueman of the Tennants' 
Arms will furnish the tourist with a guide, or any 
necessary direction. The entrance will be unexpect- 
edly found in the middle of a level bottom, and a little 
to the S. E. of a pile of stones on a neighbouring 
summit. "Within the cave are two lofty and magnificent 
chambers, in the second of w^hich broken pottery, 
charcoal, the bones of animals, pieces of iron, and a 
copper bracelet have been found ; beyond this the cave 
extends some distance, but it is not very interesting, 
and there are generally a few feet of water and mud. 
There is a cave to the south of the chasm which forms 
the entrance, extending a considerable distance, but it 
is low and difficult to penetrate. 

On the other side of the Wharfe, opposite Kilnsey, 
is the village of COKLSTON. Here the Chapel, one of 
the oldest in Craven, having fallen into decay, has been 
rebuilt with a tasteful attention to the style and detail 
of the original Norman structure. The road from 
Coniston to Grassington, two and a half miles, passes 



D 2 



30 



through Grasswood, where the nightingale is said to 
pay " Angel's visits". 

Neither Grassington nor its environs can be said to 
possess anything worthy of the attention of the general 
tourist. The lead mines however present a subject of 
interest to the mineralogist. 



From Kilnsey to Malham, eight miles. 
To Settle, fourteen miles. 
To Skipton, thirteen miles. 
To Arncliffe, four miles. 



About three quarters of a mile from Kilnsey a road 
diverges to the left into Littondale ;* and the hamlet of 
Hawkswick is passed to the right. It is said that the 
inhabitants of this dale, in times gone by, used to 
furnish annually to the crown a certain number of the 
birds used in the sport of hawking — hence perhaps the 
name, Hawkswick. Several species of the hawk tribe 
frequent the numerous cliffs that skirt the valley, f 

Arncliffe X is a very pleasing village situated under 

• Anciently called Amerdale ; the stream which flows through 
the valley is the Skirfare. 

f A gentleman in the neighbourhood now trains these birds 
with great success to bring down game, after the fashion of the 
olden times. 

J The bygone existence of the eagle in this district is 
intimated by the derivation of this name — Earn an eagle and 
Ciyffe a rock. 



31 



a rocky and wooded eminence called the Clouder. 

The Church, of which the living is valuable, is 
handsome, and has lately been repaired, and the 
interior arranged and embellished in excellent taste. 

Between Arncliffe and Litton, in the cliffs on the 
left, is a cave of large dimensions which has not yet 
been thoroughly explored. 

Beyond Litton, at the head of the dale, is Halton 
Gill, from whence a road to Horton, seven miles, passes 
under the western side of Penyghent ; and another 
winds over the Horse Head into Langstrothdale. 

The Church at Kettlewell is of great antiquity ; 
the nave, in particular, which has neither columns nor 
side aisles, has narrow round-headed windows, and 
cannot be later than the time of Henry I. The font 
is curious, having an aperture in the bottom, and 
another in the floor, through which the water might 
sink into consecrated ground. 

Below Scale Park, one mile from Kettlewell, is 
Douk Cave, which contains a series of lofty chambers, 
narrow passages, and several branch caverns. It is 
said by the men who work in the neighbouring mines 
to have a communication with their shafts, but no one 
has hitherto effected a passage from one to the other. 
Quantities of human bones have been found, and may 
still be seen in some parts of the cave, but as no other 
remains have been discovered, it seems difficult to 
account for their presence there, 



32 



At Kettlewell, Langstrothdale branches out of 
Wharfedale, westwards. The villages in this dale are 
Starbotton, Buckden, the romantic hamlet and church 
of Hubberholme and Kirkgill, Yockenthwaite, and 
Beckermonds. Above Buckden there is a lofty summit 
called Kamsden's Pike, from which may be obtained a 
magnificent and extensive view of the surrounding 
country. Near Yockenthwaite there is a circle of 
stones said to be Druidical, and near the road at 
Raisgill, on the opposite side of the river, is a large 
cairn. 

The Chapel of St. Michael, at Hubberholme, bears 
marks of high antiquity, as several Norman arches 
remain entire. Over the entrance of the chancel is 
a curious roodloft of oak, handsomely wrought, and 
bearing the date 1558. It has been an useless work, 
for in the same year the death of Queen Mary put an 
end to the worship of images, and therefore the use of 
roodlofts in churches. Hubberholme is a retired and 
romantic spot, well wooded, and enclosed with moun- 
tains, and, as Whittaker remarks, there are few scenes 
better adapted for quiet and contemplation. 

On the moors beyond Beckermonds the Wharfe 
takes its rise, and at Oughtershaw, to the N. W., is a 
tarn about one mile in circumference. 



33 



INNS. 

At Bolton Bridge, the Devonshire Arms. 

Kilnsey, the Tennants' Arms. 

Conveyances may be had at these houses, and all 
information respecting the right of fishing in the 
Wharfe obtained. 

At Bolton, across the bridge, there is another Inn of 
less pretensions, where cheapness, rural fare, and 
civility may be had. 

Kettlewell, Marshall's. 




34 




Chapter III.— MALHAM. 

KIRKBY MALHAM — C ALTON HALL — MALHAM — COVE — JANET'S 
CAVE — GORDALE — MALHAM WATER — INNS — ROUTES. 



On entering Kirkby Malham from Bell Busk or 
Gargrave, the compact little village, it's fine old church, 
and a rather unusual assemblage of well-grown trees 
have a very picturesque effect. 

The name, Kirkby, seems to prove that there has 
been a church here in the Saxon period, but the present 
structure is probably of the age of Henry VII. 



35 



On the south side of the steeple may be noticed the 

Longobardic letters G. N. E., probably the cypher of 

George Norwyeh, the Vicar in 1485, and some shields 

of the Banks, Tempests, and Malhams. In the interior, 

a few years ago, some frescoes were discovered on the 

walls beneath the coats of whitewash, and they have 

since been partially restored to light. Several of the 

columns have a niche for the reception of the statue 

of a saint. The church was garrisoned during the 

Parliamentary wars, and, as usual, robbed of the 

monumental brasses, &c. Cromwell's signature occurs 

in the registers twice ; the following is an extract, with 

a fac-simile of the Protector's autograph annexed. 

" The intended marriage between Martine Knowles of 
Middle House in the p'ishe of Kirkbiemalhamdale and 
Dorothy Hartley of West Marton in the p'ishe of Marton 
was published three severall Markett dayes in the open 
Markett place att Settle that is to say upon the 4th of 
December the first tyme and on the 11th of December the 
second tyme and on the 18th of December the third tyme 
1655. And the said Martine Knowles and Dorothy 
Hartley was married the 17th of January 1655 in the 
p'sence of these witnesse Henry Mitchell younger of 
Marton and Anthony Hartley of West Marton and others 
before mee " 

(Tlfv^r from us£bj^^ 

The Ee d is no doubt a contraction for " registered.'' 

In a chapel at the east end of the south aisle is a 
mural monument to the memory of John son of the 



36 



celebrated republican officer Major General Lambert : 
and on a brass plate on the east wall is an inscription 
to the memory of the last male heir of the family, the 
grandson of the General. General Lambert himself 
escaped the scaffold, and was banished to Guernsey 
and died there, almost forgotten, thirty years after. 
Frances, his grandaughter and the last of the family, 
married Sir John Middleton of Belsay Castle, Nor- 
thumberland. 

Calton Hall opposite Airton was the residence of 
this family ; they repurchased it from the grantee, 
Lord Fauconberg, at the restoration ; the old Hall was 
burnt down, and replaced by the present plain mansion. 
Opposite to Kirkby Malham, across the stream, is the 
the hamlet of Hanlith, and the residence of G. J. 
Serjeantson, Esq. 

Near the termination of the valley, one mile from 
hence, is the scattered and not very pleasing village 
of Malham ;* but within a short walk are those objects 
of so much interest to the tourist, the Cove and 

Gordalef. 

* In one only of the ancient charters relating to Craven, men- 
tion is made of a Robert de Maum, an orthography which agrees 
with the common pronunciation. 

t G-ordale belonged to the Canons of Bolton Abbey, and they 
had a mansion in Malham called Prior's Hall, the site of which 
is marked by a house, still retaining the ancient name. Another 
house in the village bears the name of Friar's Garth, and the 
Canons had a Bercary, or Shepherd's Lodge, here ; doubtless 
they appreciated the neighbourhood of Malham as we do, and 
made it a frequent retreat. The Cove and wide tract of country 
towards Kilnsey belonged to Fountains Abbey. 



37 



To view the Cove the visitor must proceed up the 
village, and turn into the pastures above a ruined 
Cotton Mill, which by no means adds to the beauty of 
the scene ; but the eye is soon distracted from an 
object like this by the view of the Cove rearing its 
magnificent front to the height of two hundred and 
eighty six feet, and stretching across the valley like the 
gigantic portals of a fabulous castle. A walk of a few 
hundred yards, among scattered fragments of rock and 
a multitude of hawthorns and rose trees, will bring the 
visitor to its base ; here the view upwards along the 
vast continuous surface of grey rock, interrupted only 
bya few breaks, and a series of grass and shrub-grown 
ledges, must strike the spectator with wonder and awe. 
The ledges, which seem to mark successive joints, are 
three in number, and from below it seems that even 
the lowest of these cannot be crossed with any degree 
of safety ; but by scrambling up the left side of the 
valley it will be found that the path across is broad, 
and, though rugged, free from danger. On gazing up 
from this ledge, the nests of numberless swallows may 
be descried affixed to the rock, and these blythe little 
denizens are wheeling rapidly around, regardless of 
the hawks that build and soar above them. 

The left side of the stream may be regained by a 
wooden bridge a short distance down the stream. 

It is generally considered that the copious supply of 
water which issues from under the Cove is the source 

E 



38 



of the Aire, and that it has found a subterranean way 
from the Tarn, more than a mile above. The inhabi- 
tants however, maintain that the Tarn water makes its 
appearance again in two copious springs a quarter of a 
mile below the village, and there forms the source of 
the Aire ; yet as there are no rules which distinguish 
the source of a river from tributary streams except the 
general direction, and the quantity and quality of the 
water, the Cove may justly lay claim to being the 
fountain head of the river, and the Gordale and other 
streams must be considered collateral branches. Twice 
within the last forty years the swollen waters of the 
Tarn have made their way over the Cove, but the 
torrent was dispersed in one vast cloud of spray before 
it reached the bottom ; its density and the magnificence 
of the sight may be imagined from the fact that the 
spectators could not approach within a hundred yards 
of the foot of the rock without being drenched through. 

In order to ascend to the summit of the Cove,* an 
irregular path through the brushwood on the left must 
be taken. From many points on this slope a most 
distinct repetition of echoes may be heard, and the 
effect produced here by a bugle or cornet-a-piston is 
very fine. 

At the top, a stile over the fence will be found, the 
path from which leads to a large tract of that fissured 

* The breadth of the summit is four hundred and seventy yards. 



I 



39 



limestone pavement which is so generally met with on 
the Craven hills. 

The view from this elevation is extensive, but the 
appearance of the high pastures near the Cove the 
tourist will not think improved by the new stone fences. 
The walls in most parts of Craven are a drawback to 
the scenery, and here they are peculiarly so, for time 
has not given them the usual tint, and there is no wood 
to relieve their tedious uniformity. However it is right 
to mention here, that in the late allotment of the un- 
enclosed lands about Malham, the Cove and Gordale 
have been liberally reserved open to the public. 

The workmen engaged on the fences have lately 
opened a large barrow, which is locally known by the 
name of the Friars' Heap, near the eastern arm of the 
Cove, and a quantity of human bones were found. 
The spot is much more likely to be connected with the 
marauding Scots than the peaceful monks. In a direct 
line behind the Cove there is a de^pp and narrow pass, 
closed by a lofty cliff called Coom Scar ;* in a flood 

* Some forty years ago, two hoys, sons of a gentleman at 
Malham, left their home in search of birds' nests. Arriving at 
the top of Coom Scar the elder descended the precipice, and 
having secured a hawk's nest was returning to the summit, when 
stooping down to pluck a knot of Cowslips, he lost his hold and 
fell. His brother, too young to understand what had happened, 
found his body at the foot of the rock, and after repeatedly 
shaking it, returned home quite unconcerned. " I shook him 
very hard," said he, in answer to his father's inquiries, " but he 
was sound asleep." 



4a 



the Tarn water not unfrequently rushes over here, and 
forms a second Gordale, but it is commonly prevented 

This accident suggested the following lines to Robert Story, 
for many years the parish clerk of Gargrave, and who, amid a 
number of mere rhymers, alone merits the title of the Craven 
Poet. His published poems are chiefly amatory or patriotic- 
The latter bear more especially the imprimatur of poetical talent, 
witness his i Chief of Waterloo,' and 6 The Isles are awake' 

With bounding step and laughing eye 

Young Edgar sprang his sire to hail — 
The child had rambled far and high, 

Among the crags of Malhamdale. 

See, father, what a pretty wreath 
Of flowers ! I would their names I knew ! 

I found this bright one on the heath, 
Its golden leaves all moist with dew. 

This, father, is a primrose pale, 

I knew it in its hazel bower, 
But every child within the dale 

Knows, as I think, the primrose flower. 

O, this small bud 'twas hard to spy ! 

Deep in a mossy cleft it grew ; 
With nought to look at save the sky, 

It seems to have imbibed it's blue. 

Not yet, perchance, had Edgar stayed 

This prattle, to a parent dear ; 
But — why, the anxious father said, 

Is Henry, with his flowers, not here I 

My brother ! 0, I had forgot ! 

The little rosy boy replied, 
I left him in^the wildest spot 

Asleep — yon mighty crag beside- 

Asleep, my boy ? Yes, father, we 

A hawk had started from a chink ; 
And, on the crag's top leaving me, 

My brother clambered round it's brink. 

Soon did I hear his shout of glee, 

The nest became his instant prize ; 
"When clambering back his way to me, 

A knot of cowslips caught his eyes. 

He stooped and disappeared. — Sometime 

I stood and watched, the hazel shoot 
By which my brother up might climb ; 

At last I sought the crag's green foot : 

I found him lying on the sward, 

The grassy sward beneath the steep ; 
I shook, and shook him very hard, 

But, father, he was sound asleep. 






41 



from reaching the Cove by sinking at the foot of this 
pass through the shattered and fissured stratum with 
singular noise and rapidity. 

From the top of the Cove to the top of Gordale the 
distance is little more than one mile, and round by the 
Tarn three, but to a perfect stranger a guide is here 
necessary ; it is usual for parties to return to the village, 
and thence proceed to Gordale. 

The bridge over the river in Malham must be crossed, 
and the road to the N. E. taken, and after a walk of a 
mile, a gate on the right, at the foot of a steep hill will 
be found, from which a short path leads to the glen 
sometimes called Little Gordale. Here, the quiet 
fall of the water, its depth and clearness in the basin, 
the rocky bed of the stream, the climbing ivy, and the 
over-hanging wood, conspire to form a most romantic 
spot. Across the stream, and through the tangled 
brushwood, " a little moonlight room" will be found in 
the rock; it is called Janet's Cave, and tradition 
makes it the ancient abode of fairies. Fancy may well 
believe the spot to have been either the haunt of " this 
small sort of airy people", or the dwelling of some 



The father shrieked the lost one's name ! 

Young Edgar heard, and held his breath ; 
For o'er him with a shudder came. 

The thought that he had been with — Death. 

He led them to the fatal spot, 
Where still and cold his brother lay, 

Within his hand the cowslip knot 
That lured his heedless foot astray. 

E2 



42 



" world- wearied" anchorite.* If this nook of scenery 
deserve the epithet beautiful, Gordale, to which the 
tourist will now turn, is truly a specimen of the sublime. 
The path is entered upon through the yard of a farm 
house on the left, the tenant requiring only the closing 
of his gates. 

Flowing through a wild and desolate-looking valley 
two distinct streams will be noticed ; at first sight they 
would appear both to spring from one source ; yet the 
bed of the left one is covered with a yellow calcareous 
deposit, and the other has a mossy bed, and is rich in 
aquatic plants. The former is the Gordale stream, and 
the latter rises from a bubbling spring half way up the 
vale. 

At length the path seems to be terminated by lofty 
barriers of rock, but a turn to the right suddenly dis- 
closes the scene. 

Here let the visitor be left to his own reflections. 
* # # • * # * * * 

The poet Gray who visited Gordale in 1769 describes 
it thus to his friend Dr. Wharton. "As I advanced, 
the crags seemed to close in, but discovered an entrance 
to the left between them ; I followed my guide a few 
paces, and the hills opened again into no large space ; 
and then all further way is barred by a stream, that at 

* Here the English habit of inscribing names is displayed 
in perfection. Even the brush and paint pot have been in 
requisition. 



I 



43 



the height of about fifty feet, gushes from a hole in the 
rock, and spreading in large sheets over its broken 
front, dashes from steep to steep, and then rattles away 
in a torrent down the valley ; the rock on the left rises 
perpendicular, with stubbed yew trees and shrubs 
starting from its sides, to the height of at least three 
hundred feet. But these are not the thing, it is the 
rock on the right, under which you stand to see the 
fall, that forms the principal horror of the place. From 
its very base it begins to slope forward over you in one 
black and solid mass, without any crevice in its surface, 
and overshadows half of the area below in its dreadful 
canopy. When I stood, I believe, four yards from its 
foot, the drops which perpetually distil from its brow, 
fell upon my head, and in one part of its top, more 
exposed to the weather, there are loose stones that 
hang in the air, and threaten visibly some idle spectator 
with instant destruction ; it is safer to shelter yourself 
close to its bottom, and trust to the mercy of that 
enormous mass, which nothing but an earthquake can 
stir. The gloomy uncomfortable day well suited the 
savage aspect of the place, and made it still more for- 
midable. I staid there, not without shuddering, a 
quarter of an hour, and thought my trouble richly 
repaid, for the impression will last with life."* 

* Wordsworth has two sonnets on the Cove and Gordale. 
Had they been written on the spot, instead of suggested by the 
engravings of "Westall, they might have interested the reader. 



44 



A Mr. Walker, in 1779, hits upon the following 
method of describing the indescribable to his town-bred 
readers : " Consider yourself in a winding street with 
houses one hundred yards high on each side of you ; 
then figure to yourself a cascade rushing from an upper 
window, and tumbling over carts, waggons, fallen 
houses, &c, in promiscuous ruin ; and perhaps a 
Cockney idea may be formed of this tremendous cliff."* 

In order to ascend up the side of the fall, the stream 
must be crossed, and a rock,t well worn with footsteps, 
ascended ; on turning the corner some care is necessary, 
as it approaches close to the fall ; a steep stony path 
must then be climbed, and the summit is soon reached. 
By scrambling over the rocky ridge to the right, at any 
convenient point, the stream will again be met with, 
and by following it down, the natural arch through 
which it dashes may be reached; and here, if the 
spectator can trust his head and nerves, he will obtain 
a magnificent view downwards of the rocks and the 
bottom of the fall. 

Gordale has occasionally been visited, and even the 

* Tradition reports that the Courts Baron for East Malham 
were anciently held under the sheltering canopy of Gordale, and 
a more impossible story is told of one of the Tempests having 
leapt his horse over the chasm at the top of Gordale. 

f This rock appears to have been formed by a series of 
calcareous deposits from the water. On searching underneath 
it, pieces may be found which will take a polish, and have then a 
pretty striated appearance. 



45 



pass ascended by parties at the " witching hour" of a 
moonlight night, and such a visit will amply repay any 
one who may undertake it. 

The Tarn is distant between one and two miles from 
the top of Gordale, and may be reached either by 
following the course of the stream, or taking a direct 
course N.E. by N. over the high pastures. 

Malham Water is nearly a mile in diameter, but 
can by no means rival any of the Westmorland or 
Cumberland lakes ; it is destitute of natural wood, the 
rocks are too far removed from the margin, and the 
banks are not bold enough to show the plantations to 
advantage. On a well chosen site on the eastern bank 
is the mansion called the Tarn House, erected by the 
first Lord Ribblesdale. It is now occupied as a summer 
residence by E. York, Esq. 

The Trout in Malham Tarn are peculiarly fine ; 
there are two varieties, the red, and the silver. They 
were once frequently caught five or six pounds in 
weight, but they are at present much diminished both 
in size and numbers, owing to the great increase of 
Perch. 



INNS. 
There are two Inns at Malham, the Listers' Arms, 
and the Buck, (Harrison's). At the latter will be found 
every accommodation that the tourist can desire. In 



46 



the parlour is a painting of no mean pretensions by the 
late Lord Ribblesdale ; it was formerly used as the 
sign of the house. 



ROUTES. 

By the carriage road round by Hellifield and Long 
Preston, fourteen miles. 

There are several routes for pedestrians to Settle. 

1. By a lane turning to the right at the southern 
extremity of the village, and terminating by a footpath 
on the road near Highside. The walk by this route 
is the least fatiguing, and is little more than six miles. 
Scaleber and Attermire are included in it, which see 
under Settle. 

2. By the northern extremity of the village, the 
western side of the Tarn, Capon Hall, Cowside, and 
Langcliffe, seven miles. Half a mile on the left, opposite 
the Tarn is Clattering Sykes, a high marshy pasture, 
where the soil is one mass of encrinites and various 
other fossils. 

3. By the direct route over the hills westwards, past 
the lead mines and Stockdale, six miles. 

To Horton, eight miles. 
To Kilnsey, eight miles. 

The track to Kilnsey, after the enclosed road is left, 
is hardly discernible, but by consulting the map, and 



47 



taking care not to turn to the right at Boardley, the 
pedestrian will make out the way. 

To Gargrave, seven miles. 

To Bell Busk Station, five miles. 




48 




Chapter IV.— SETTLE. 



VLBW FROM THE RAILWAY BRIDGE — THE TOWN — CASTLEBERG 

— ROUTES GIGGLESWICK — CAVES — EBBING AND FLOWING 

WELL — OX SCAR CAIRN — ECHOES SC ALEBER — ATTER- 

MIRE VICTORIA CAVE — CATTERICK FOSS — STAINFORTH 

FOSS — LONG PRESTON — HELLIFIELD WIGGLESWORTH- 

ROUTES — INNS. 



A better view of the romantic and beautiful environs 
of Settle can hardly be obtained than that from the 
railway bridge over the Ribble. 






j 



49 



Above the town appears the rock of Castleberg, 
rising to a height of three hundred feet above the level 
of the market-place, and backed by a cluster of steep 
green hills ; there is the picturesque vale of the 
Ribble, terminated by rising fells and the dome-like 
summit of Penyghent, and enclosed between the scars 
and high pastures of Stackhouse and Moughton on the 
left, and those of Langcliffe and Stainforth on the right; 
there is a beautiful view of Giggleswick and its scars, 
surmounted by the noble mountain of Ingleborough ; 
and to the south lies the rich and comparatively level 
scenery which is terminated by Pendle Hill. 

Settle would scarcely now be recognised from Gray's 
account eighty years ago. He says ; " It is a small 
market-town standing directly under a rocky fell ; there 
are not above a dozen good-looking houses, and the rest 
are old and low, with little wooden porticoes in front.'' 
The last of these penthouses disappeared in 1832, to 
make way for the Town Hall, a handsome Elizabethan 
structure ; in which are the large library of the Settle 
Literary Society, and the News-room. To these any 
stranger may obtain admission upon introduction by a 
member. The Mechanics' Library and the Savings' 
Bank are also in this building. The rest of the town, 
though irregularly built, is neat and compact. The 
church, erected in 1837, although rather unusual in 
design, seems, especially from some points of view, to 
suit the character of the surrounding scenery. 



50 



The grounds of Castleberg were leased by a few- 
individuals for ninety nine years, several of which are 
unexpired, but a small gratuity is expected by the 
person who gives the key for admission. Several 
winding paths through the plantations lead to a seat 
on a platform at the base of the rock, from which 
the bird's eye view of the town is both curious and 
complete. The summit of the rock may be reached by 
either the right or left path. It is more than probable 
that this elevation has at some period been crowned by 
a fort, although there is no tradition respecting one, 
and there are no certain traces of a ruin. Within the 
last century the peak of Castleberg formed the gnomon 
of a huge sun dial, whose hours were marked along 
the hill side by large stones ; these have been long 
removed, and the plantations occupy their site. An 
old engraving, in the possession of George Hartley, 
Esq., of Settle, represents a part of the town and the 
dial ; there is also an engraving of it, as well as of 
the Ebbing and Flowing "Well, in the Bodleian Library. 

The view from the summit of Castleberg embraces 
Ribblesdale northwards towards Penyghent, the bold 
front made by the junction of the Stackhouse and 
Giggleswick Scars, and a wide expanse of country to 
the south and south west, through which the Hibble 
winds its sinuous way. Although railways are not 
generally supposed to embellish scenery like this, yet 
the embankment of the North "Western, seen from \ 
Castleberg, can hardly be said to offend the eye. 



51 



It may be convenient to the tourist to have pointed 
out some of the routes which include different objects 
of interest, and are within the compass of a moderate 
walk from Settle. 

To Giggleswick, the Scars, Ebbing and Flowing 
"Well, Ox Scar, and return by Stackhouse, or Little 
Stainforth. 

To Scaleber, Attermire, Victoria Cave, and return 
by Langcliffe, or over Stainforth Scar to Catterick and 
Stainforth Fosses. 

To Long Preston, Hellifield, and Wigglesworth, and 
return by Rathmell and Giggleswick. 

Giggleswick is a prettily situated village three 
quarters of a mile from Settle. Here is the spacious 
and handsome parish Church, dedicated to St. Alkald,* 
and near it is the well-known Free Grammar School, 
founded by Edward VI at the instance of his chaplain, 

* This may not be an improper place to mention that in the 
parish registers is recorded in large characters the burial of 
Thomas Denny, a well-known character of the last century, and 
a singular compound of simplicity, genius, and vagrancy. He 
had an extraordinary talent for improvising, and a surprising 
skill in the Greek language. He is said to have translated at 
sight any passage into Greek, and his impromptu rendering of 
the following doggerel into hexameter and pentameter verse is 
still preserved ; 

Three crooked cripples crept through Clitheroe Castle, 
Creep, crooked cripples, creep. 
At one time he lived at Langcliffe and had classical pupils, and 
at another he wandered from house to house, reciting Anacreon 
or Pindar for a morsel of bread. 



52 



John Nowell, who was Vicar of Giggleswick from 
1548 to 1556. The celebrated Archdeacon Paley 
received his education here under his father the Rev. 
¥m. Paley, who held the Head Mastership for up- 
wards of half a century.* 

On leaving Giggleswick by the Clapham road the 
school will be seen ; it has recently been re-built after 
an appropriate and beautiful design.f Beyond are the 
residences of the Masters, Holywell Toft, the residence 
of the Vicar of Giggleswick, and Catteral Hall, the 
beautiful seat of J. Hartley, Esq. 

Pursuing the road, to the right are Kelcowe Wood 
and the commencement of Giggleswick Scars. In the 
wood is a cave with a lofty entrance, but of no great 
extent. In making some excavations here several 
Eoman fibulce, and coins of Vespasian were found : 
they are now in the possession of Mr. Hartley. 

Further on, the ridge of rocks skirting the road 
becomes very bold and striking ; the surfaces and 

* Of Archdeacon Paley, Dr. "Whittaker observes, that every 
anecdote will be interesting to posterity. The following is 
perhaps more authentic than the carefully preserved saying of 
his, " That he could not afford to keep a conscience''. He was 
observed by a friend gazing intently up the valley from Settle 
Bridge, and being asked what attracted his attention, " I was 
thinking," said the Dr., " how like Penyghent is to a raised pie" 

f Giggleswick School is free to pupils of all nations. It 
gives several small exhibitions to Christ's College, Cambridge, 
and one of £45 a year for natives of the parish, and also sends a 
candidate for the valuable exhibitions of Lady Hastings, 



53 



clefts are ornamented with ivy and the indigenous 
yew, and beneath, the fir plantations and hazel trees 
clothe the broken and stony ground. 

There are several caves among these scars, but none 
possessing any interest except the Dangerous and 
Staircase Caves. The latter is situated at the foot of 
the cliff opposite the middle of the level part of the 
road, and is remarkable only for the natural flight of 
stairs up it, from which it has taken its name. The 
former is near the summit of the ridge, opposite some old 
lime-kilns close to the ascent of the brow. The first 
descent into it is steep, but may be safely accomplished 
without a rope or ladder ; the passage then turns to 
the right, proceeds some distance, and terminates in a 
lofty chamber adorned with various forms of wreathing 
spar and depending stalactite. Among the limestone 
pavement, on the summit of the rocks above this cave, 
quantities of black quartz crystals are to be found. 

On the right hand side of the road is the celebrated 
Ebbing and Flowing Well. The tourist may perhaps 
be disappointed on making a first visit to this curious 
spring, as its habits are extremely irregular. During 
a very dry, or a rainy season, the reciprocation almost 
entirely ceases, but when there is a medium supply of 
water it is commonly in full activity, rising and falling 
rapidly, sometimes without intermission, and at other 
times with irregular intervals. The distance between 
its flux and reflux varies from a few inches to half a 

F 2 



54 



yard. Different explanations of this phenomenon have 
been given, but none that satisfactorily accounted both 
for the reciprocation and its irregularity, as well as for 
the influence of wet and dry seasons, until a solution 
on the principle of the double syphon was given by the 
late ingenious Thomas Hargraves, of Settle. A model 
was constructed by him, which exactly exhibited the 
eccentric habits of the well ; it is now deposited in the 
Library of the Settle Mechanics' Institute. The 
following diagram will render the explanation clear. 




55 



A, the great basin formed in the rock. B, the duct 
that conveys the water to C, the smaller basin. D, the 
duct that conveys the water from C to E, the well. F, 
crevices through which the water escapes into the duct 
D, when the stream is not sufficient to fill the duct B. 
G, crevices through which the water escapes from A to 
C, when A is overcharged. It will be seen that B and 
D form each a syphon ; B draws off the water from 
the basin A, and fills the smaller basin C until it runs 
over at D ; now D, being wider than B, soon empties 
the basin C, and then the stream ceases until C is filled 
again, thus causing the reciprocation. 

The irregularity of the reciprocation is caused thus : 
B draws off the water from A faster than it is supplied 
by the spring, consequently A becomes empty, and no 
reciprocation takes place until it is filled again to the 
height of the syphon B, when the fulness of A causes 
a most powerful one, and before the well goes down to 
its proper medium, another, but less powerful one, 
takes place, and the interval between each flux and 
reflux increases, until A is emptied again. In dry 
weather there is no reciprocation because the water is 
insufficient to fill B> and it escapes through the crevices 
F ; and after much rain the basin C is too powerfully 
supplied by B and the crevices G. 

The steep hill above the Well is called Buckhaw 
Brow, and the high ground on the right of the summit 
the Ox Scar. On a fine evening the view from this 



56 



scar is peculiarly rich ; the wide expanse of country 
watered by the Wenning and the Lune, the line of 
Cumberland hills, and Morecambe Bay are seen, and 
nearer to the eye the magnificent breadth of Ingle- 
borough, and the round summit of Penyghent ; whilst 
the south embraces almost every natural object that 
can render scenery attractive. A lake only is wanting; 
but thirty years ago this desideratum was not looked 
for in vain. The site where the waters of Giggleswick 
Tarn once stood may be easily distinguished at the 
point where the Giggleswick diverges from the Settle 
road, opposite the lime-kilns. The spirit of utility 
drained off the water, and converted the ground into 
rich meadow and pasture land. 

A walk of a mile and a half over the hills eastwards 
will bring the pedestrian into Ribblesdale at Stack- 
house, or at Little Stainforth. 

Near a gate on the path, when the descent is 
commenced to Stackhouse, there is a Cairn of eighty 
feet in diameter ; it has not been completely examined, 
but human bones are commonly found in it. These 
cairns, barrows, or raises, as they are sometimes called, 
are not unfrequent in Craven. It is difficult to determine 
to what race of people they owe their origin, but many 
of them are probably burial places where the slain in 
skirmishes between the inhabitants and the Scotch and 
Pictish invaders were deposited. As might be ex- 
pected, no remains of arms are found in them, and 



57 



little else, except bones, and sometimes a species of 
rude coffin, made with five rude stones. 

To the left of the track to Stainforth a ridge of rock 
with a hazel wood at its base will be observed ; at 
various points near this, a loud call will summon a 
repetition of six or seven echos from the opposite cliff 
and the surrounding hills. 

On the road between Little Stainforth and Stack- 
house, in the comer of a field to the left, there is a 
slight hollow in the ground, on applying the ear to 
which a rambling noise is heard ; it is no doubt caused 
by a fall of water reverberating in a subterraneous 
cavity ; it is remarkable, however, that no water i^ 
known to enter above, nor has the egress of any been 
observed in the river below ; the place is commonly 
called Robin Hood's Mill. 

The mountain road from Settle to Malham, six miles, 
is through Upper Settle, to the right of Castleberg. 
On the hills to the left of this ascending road, the soil 
is full of single and conglomerate quartz crystals, and 
the stones of which the walls are built abound in fossil 
shells, and other deposits of marine origin. A short 
distance further there are two branches of the road ; 
the one on the left leading by Stockdale and the lead 
mines, to Malham ; the right over Highside, to Airton 
and Kirkby Malham. 

The brown conical hill to the right of Stockdale is 
called Rye! oaf. 



58 



Near the summit of the road, before entering on 
Malham Moors, are two large Bowder Stones, which 
are mentioned in the Gazetteers as rocking stones. It 
would require no little strength to set them in motion. 
The lead mines, though not at present worked, have 
occasionally yielded a rich supply of ore. 

Below the bridge on the road to Airton is Scaleber 
Foss, a deep gorge, at the head of which are two falls 
of water, forming during a flood a continuous cascade 
of between forty and fifty feet. It is frequently visited 
in winter, when the frozen stream and the immense 
group of icicles form a curious and interesting spectacle. 

To the left of the road to Malham, and at a distance 
of little more than a mile from Settle, is Attermire, a 




most remarkable assemblage of rocks ; beetling crags, 
abrupt summits, castellated and perpendicular cliffs are 
grouped together in a semicircular range, and present 
an instance, perhaps unequalled in the neighbourhood, 



59 



of that imposing effect which the limestone alone is 
privileged to assume. 

Attermire Cave is situated in the eastern cliff, and 
its lofty entrance is reached by climbing up the stony 
ground, and a short height of the rock ; it is of con- 
siderable length, but in several places difficult to 
penetrate : a human skeleton, a stone bead, and some 
coins have at different times been found in it. There 
are many other caves among the rocks, but none worth 
visiting except Victoria Cave. 

This Cave is in the cliffs that range northwards from 
Attermire, at a point where the rock makes a rectan- 
gular turn, and nearly opposite to a solitary clump of 
trees on the level of the pastures above Langcliffe. 
The large chamber on the left was discovered about 
ten years ago, and a quantity of broken pottery, bones 
of animals, fibuloe, coins, bone hooks, &c. have since 
been found in it. Most of them are in the possession 
of the discoverer, ]\Ir. Joseph Jackson, of Settle. 




The coins are all small, and of copper, and among 
them are some of Claudius Gothicus, Cons tans, and 
Constantine I, II, and III. It is the opinion of the Irish 



60 



Archoeological Society, to whom they were submitted, 
that the coins are not Roman, but British imitations of 
current Roman coins, and that peculiar interest is 
attached to them on that account. 

Mr. Roach Smith states these remains to have been 
funereal ; and a late distinguished prelate was of 
opinion that they had found then way thither by 
means of wolves or other beasts of prey. However 
the most probable account is that this and other caves* 
in the neighbourhood were the concealed retreats of 
straggling hordes of British, who, though partly 
Romanized, were still unwilling to succumb to the 
power of then conquerors. According to their general 
policy the Romans would early introduce their own 
coinage, and consequently these rebellious British 
bands would be induced to manufacture rude imitations. 
On their compulsory abandonment of their hiding 
places, everything of value, and more especially arms, 
would be carried off, and nothing but small, and to 
them comparatively valueless articles, owing to haste 
and the uncertain light, would be left scattered about 
among the broken pottery, charred wood, and the bones 
of animals. 

The Cave when first discovered was rich in spar and 
stalactites, but, as usual, they were broken, destroyed, 
or carried off. 

From Victoria Cave the best route northwards is 

* See Doukerbottora, Attermire, Kelcowe, and Douk Cave*. 



61 



across the road from Langcliffe to Malham, and by 
Winskill, a group of two or three houses curiously 
situated on the summit of Stainforth Scar. In the 
walk from thence to Catterick a number of large 
Bowder stones will be met with, and another phase of 
the scenery of Settle and Eibblesdale observed. 

Catterick Foss is a deep and wooded glen into 
which a mountain stream descends with a succession of 
six or seven falls. From the direction in which the 
tourist has been brought, it will be best to descend 
into the glen at its head, down to the foot of the highest 
fall, and thence to follow the course of the stream 
downwards, a somewhat difficult task, but well repaid 
by the views of the lower falls ; indeed there is perhaps 
not a more interesting specimen of the subalpine glen 
in Craven. 

Near the bottom is another glen called Sannet Gill, 
stretching towards the N.E., through whose wooded 
denies another stream with a rocky bed and numerous 
small falls makes its way. 

Stainforth, an abode of wealth and competence, is a 
pretty village, with a newly-erected small but handsome 
church. 

Stainforth Foss is formed by the passage of the 
Ribble through a rocky and contracted ^channel not 
unlike the Strid at Bolton. It is immediately below 
the bridge between the two Stainforths, and is best 
viewed from the left bank of the river, a path to 

G 



62 



which will be found from the bridge. Although it is 
not a lofty fall, yet the rush of the river through the 
rocks, its voluminous descent into a basin of unknown 
depth, the cliff and overhanging wood, and the view 
upwards of the stream and its picturesque bridge form 
a river scene unrivalled in the course of the Ribble. 

On the road from Stainforth to Langcliffe are indi- 
cations of the site of a village said to have been 
destroyed by an incursion of the Scots. It may have 
been the parent of the present village, and having been 
situated near to the long range of scar has perhaps 
originated the name, Langcliffe. Opposite is Langcliffe 
Place, and the large unromantic Cotton Mill. Across 
the river is the picturesque hamlet of Stackhouse, 
happily situated at the foot of the rocky and wooded 
hills. 

Langcliffe Hall is a handsome and ancient mansion, 
the residence of Mrs. Swale. It was formerly the 
property of Major Dawson, a man of learning and 
accomplishment, and one of the first in the North 
of England to understand and appreciate Newton's 
" Principia". Sir Isaac is said to have been an 
occasional visitor at Langcliffe Hall, and to have made 
an arbour, still existing in the garden, his favourite 
retreat for philosophical meditation. 



Settle to Long Preston, four miles. 
Hellifield, six miles. 



63 



At both of these villages there is a station on the 
North "Western line of Railway. 

Long Preston to Wigglesworth, two miles. 

Wigglesworth, by Rathmell, to the Settle Railway 
Station, four miles. 



The word Long, alluding to the unwonted length of 
the village, is a modern addition to the ancient name, 
Preston, or Priest's town ; a name which indicates that 
a church has existed here from very early times. The 
present building however, though not in good repair, is 
perhaps not older than the generality of churches in 
Craven. In the south choir a chantry was founded by 
Sir Richard Hamerton, and it still belongs to the family. 
Beneath the arch between the chapel and the chancel is 
a tomb bearing five shields and a commemoratory in- 
scription with the date 1445, and this is supposed to be 
the date of the present building, hardly a vestige of any 
previous structure being visible. 

A floor of painted tiles has occasionally been met 
with in digging graves near the entrance of the church 
yard ; they are supposed by Dr. Whittaker to indicate 
the site of an ancient chapel dedicated to St. Michael, 
which he discovers from an old charter to have once 
existed here. 

Near Hellifield is the Peel, the residence of the 
ancient family of the Hamertons, and with the exception 



64 



of Bolton Hall, perhaps the oldest mansion in Craven. 
From its great strength, comparatively small size, and 
the fact that it was once surrounded by a moat, it is 
probable that it was used only as a fortified retreat in 
unsettled times ; the family usually residing at Wiggles- 
worth in wealth and splendour up to the time of Sir 
Stephen Hamerton, 1537. 

Opposite to Long Preston, across the river, is 
Wigglesworth. The manor has successively belonged 
to the Hamertons, Sir Thomas Holcroft, Sir Richard 
Sherburne the founder of Stony hurst, Sir John Statham, 
and the ancestors of Earl de Grey, the present pro- 
prietor. At the Hall there are some remains which 
indicate a mansion of architectural pretensions, especially 
an outbuilding now used as a piggery, 

In the woody dingle to the north of the village is a 
sulphurous spring, protected by a neat and antique 
stone canopy bearing the date 1666, and the initials of 
Sir Richard Sherburne and Isabella his wife, a daughter 
of John Ingleby of Lawkland Hall. Of this well, Dr. 
Murray the well-known analytical chemist says, " It is 
a most valuable and unusually strong sulphuretted 
water, and as far as I have examined mineral waters, 
second to none." From his analysis and that of Dr. 
Garnett it appears that a gallon of the water contains 
seventeen cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen, four 
of azote, and a small portion of carbonic acid, sulphate 



65 



of magnesia in the proportion of seventy five grains to 
a gallon, a considerable quantity of muriate of soda, 
and a minute proportion of carbonate of lime. It differs 
from the Harrogate water in containing a much smaller 
quantity of saline matter, and approaches very nearly 
to the Shap Spa. No doubt it would be found equally 
efficacious with these waters in cutaneous affections, 
chronic rheumatism, &c. Two hundred yards above, 
on the other side of the rivulet there is a chalybeate 
spring, but of no unusual strength ; indeed ferrugineous 
springs, and some stronger than this, are of frequent 
occurrence in the neighbourhood. 

Wigglesworth, with its medicinal waters, its retired 
situation, and the beauty and salubrity of the sur- 
rounding neighbourhood, might form, if not a place of 
fashionable resort, at least an eligible retreat for the 
invalid. There is an excellent specimen of the quiet 
and comfortable country Inn in the village. 



Settle to Malham, six miles. 
Horton, six miles. 
Clapham, six miles. 
Ingleton, ten miles. 



G2 



66 



INNS. 

At Settle, the Golden Lion Hotel and the New Inn, 
Between both of these houses and the Railway Station 
conveyances run in connection with the several trains. 

Giggleswick, the Hart's Head. 

Wigglesworth, the Plough. 










67 




Chapter V.— HOBTON. 



SHERWOOD BROW — SMEARSIDE — SWARTH MOOR — QUARRIES 

HORTON — DOUKGILL — THIRL POT — THUND POT — PENY- 
GHENT — GIANTS* GRAVES — SUMMARY OF HEIGHTS — 
RINGLE POT — SELSIDE — HELLEN POT — RIBBLE HEAD — 
KATNOT CAVE — GEARSTONE3 — ROUTES — DENT — SEDBERG 
— WENSLEYDALE — LINN GILL — BROW GILL — BIRKWITH — 
SEL GILL — INNS — ROUTES. 



From each of the two Stainforths, Stainforth-under- 
Bargh and Freer- Stainforth, as they were anciently 
called, there is a road to Horton. The one from the 
former village has a steep ascent called Sherwood Brow, 



68 



from the summit of which there is a striking view of a 
deep gorge and elbow in the river, Sherwood Houses, 
and the rocks of Moughton ; southwards also the view 
of the valley is fine and comprehensive. 

The road on the western side of the Ribble passes 
under a steep conical hill called Smearside, the summit 
of which commands a splendid view of Ingleborough, 
Moughton, Penyghent, Fountains Fell, Stainforth, 
Settle and Giggleswick Scars, Pendle, Bowland, and 
the intermediate vales and level lands. 

From the top of Swarth Moor the greater part of 
the parish of Horton may be seen ; a comparatively 
level tract, intersected by the winding river, and 
bounded by the limestone range of Moughton on the 
one hand, and by high pastures and brown fells on the 
other. The valley is deficient only in wood, yet the 
scattered farm houses with their cultivated lands and 
well- watered meadows, and the view of the village with 
the white steeple of its church, form a pleasant rural 
view. Though Horton is less favoured in climate and 
soil than the more southern parts of Eibblesdale, Lady 
Murray is a little too hard on the valley when she says 
"that gooseberries will not ripen in it." 

The large flag quarries at Studfold, on Helwith Moss, 
and Coom Scar, and the clearly defined junction of the 
slate and limestone on Moughton, are interesting sub- 
jects for inspection to the Geologist. At the higher 
extremity of the valley, under Simon Fell, there is a 



69 



black marble of excellent quality. It was quarried 
some years ago, but owing to the difficulty and expense 
of the land carriage it was abandoned. Under Peny- 
ghent also there is a superior fossil marble. 

The body of the church at Horton is of great 
antiquity, the south aisle, the nave, door, and font being 
of the first era of church building in Craven, and 
therefore of the date 1150 at the latest. As the original 
Craven churches had no tower, the steeple as well as the 
east window must be referred to the time of Henry VII 
or VIII, the second era. The wall of the north aisle 
is a piece of churchwardens' architecture, done within 
the memory of man. The building is said to be dedi- 
cated to St. Oswald, but a mitred head, and beneath it, 
" Thomas Cantuar", among the remains of stained glass 
in the east window, seem to indicate that it has been 
dedicated to Thomas a Beckett. In the churchyard is 
a well-endowed Grammar School free to all residents in 
the parish. 

If the course of the stream be followed up the 
village, and the path taken through the yard of the last 
farm house, the visitor will meet with Doukgill Scar, 
a grotesque amphitheatre of rock, from the foot of 
which the water makes its exit after a long subterranean 
journey from the moors above. Piled with huge and 
apparently detached masses that threaten every moment 
to leave their hold, the rock has more the appearance 
of a vast mouldering ruin, than of the usual solid 



70 



masonry of limestone. Several large blocks seem to 
have fallen at some time, and to have formed a platform 
above the exit of the water, with an impending canopy. 
A scramble up to this ledge will be repaid by a pleasing 
view of the glen, and the downward course of the 
stream. The cave from which the water issues may be 
penetrated to a distance of thirty or forty yards but 
the shattered state of the stratum renders the experi- 
ment worse than useless. 

Through the plantation on the left a path will be 
found which leads to the road winding along the bank 
of a deep Foss, and terminating at a gate on Horton 
Moor. Opposite to this gate, and at a distance of little 
more than a hundred yards is Thirl Pot*, a large 
elliptical chasm, somewhat dangerous from this ap- 
proach, for the spectator will hardly be aware of its 
presence until he is close to its edge. In an old tour 
through this district the writer says of the chasm, " If 
we could have descended into it, it would have appeared 
like the inside of an enormous Gothic castle, the high 
ruinous walls of which were left standing after the roof 
was fallen in". However difficult the descent may have 
been at that time, it may be accomplished now with 
tolerable ease by means of a pole, with a rope attached, 

* Although Pot is a mere local and rather absurd name for 
these chasms, it may be convenient to make use of it in the 
following pages. It is probably a corruption or contraction of 
the ADglo-Saxon, Botin, a bottom or lowest depth. 



71 



laid across the cleft at the eastern extremity ; indeed, 
men in the neighbourhood, accustomed to this and the 
like places, frequently descend without any assistance 
except that cf active limbs. During a flood the stream 
above makes its way over the cliff, and forms a foaming 
cataract, and at different times the Pot has been known 
to boil over. As the flood subsides, the water gradually 
sinks through the fissured bottom, and at a moderately 
dry season every part of the chasm may be readily 
explored. The usual course of the stream is by suc- 
cessive falls through a cave, which may be reached by 
a short climb to the right of the place of descent. The 
bed of sand which is left about here will be found to 
contain a considerable quantity of lead, and there is 
every appearance of a metallic vein ranging east and 
west through the chasm. There is a tradition that the 
lead which roofs Horton Church was procured here, a 
story not at all improbable, as for such humble found- 
ations as the Norman churches in these valleys, the 
metal could hardly have been purchased at a dear rate, 
or conveyed from any great distance. 

Thund Pot is situated in the next pasture to the 
right, and near a gate on the cart track to Penyghent. 
This chasm also is the receptacle of a mountain stream, 
which is said to make its appearance again at a place 
called Bransgill Head, near New Inn, a part of the 
village of Horton. It must thus in its course cross 
above or below the stream from Thirl Pot, which 



n 



emerges at Doukgill ; this opinion is founded on experi- 
ments made by throwing chaff into the water, and 
watching its egress. Thund Pot is a narrow and 
frightful gulf, and dangerous to approach on account of 
the shelving ground around its mouth. It has been 
plumbed to a depth of two hundred feet, ninety of 
which have been descended by rope, but little has been 
seen or discovered to repay the trouble and danger of 
such an experiment. 

The cart track across the moor winds along a 
circuitous route to the summit of PENYGHENT, but the 
usual place of ascent on this side is up what is called 
the Greenrake, a broad grassy track between two 
projecting rocks.* The early morning, the noon, and 
the evening have each their peculiar advantages for the 
ascent of such mountains as Penyghent and Ingle- 

* From Stainforth the mountain is sometimes ascended on 
the eastern side, but the road is uninteresting, there is a wet 
morass to be crossed, and the face of the hill consists of a series 
of deep stony gullies, and projecting strata. However, should 
the pedestrian be inclined to descend the eastern side, for 
Stainforth, he may visit on the way the wild and rocky glen of 1 
Hesleden Gill, and Penyghent House, near which are several 
large stones marking what are called Giants' Graves. These 
Dr. Whittaker supposes to be Danish remains, and says of them, 
" The bodies have been enclosed in a rude Kist Yaens consisting 
of limestones pitched on edge, within which they appear to have 
been artificially imbedded in peet earth. But this substance 
in consequence of lying dry and in small quantities, has lost its 
well-known property of tanning substances, for all the remains 
which have been disinterred from these deposits are reduced to 
skeletons". 



73 



borough. Soon after sunrise, when the clouds are 
dispersing and beginning to assume a higher altitude, 
their slow and solemn motion, the haze in the valleys, 
the illumined summits of the hills, like pleasant islands 
in those lakes of mists, the grand pictorial effects of 
light and shade, and the purity and freshness of the air, 
may well tempt the tourist to select such an hour. 
In the evening too, the pageantry of a sunset may have 
its peculiar charms, but as the chief object in ascending 
a mountain is to obtain an extensive view of the sur- 
rounding country, the noon, unless there has been a 
succession of dry and hot days, will be found to be the 
most eligible time for such a purpose. 

On most of the lofty hills the officers of the Ordnance 
Survey have erected a pile of stones, and consequently 
the one on Penyghent will afford the most complete 
point of view. To the north the prospect is limited by 
a succession of high and desolate fells ; on the east are 
Scoska Moor, and Fountains Fell, which latter still 
retains the name of the monastery to which it anciently 
belonged, all the pastures from thence to Kilnsey having 
been once ranged by the flocks and herds of Fountains 
Abbey ; the southern view extends some miles beyond 
the eastern arm of Pendle, and includes an extensive 
range, the principal features of which have been already 
enumerated ; and to the west and north west are 
Lunesdale and Morecambe Bay, Ingleborough, an arm 
of Whernside, and the distant mountains of the Lake 
District. h 



74 



Near the summit are some horizontal shafts from 
which coal is procured for lime burning, and near the 
cart track below these, a scanty spring (which is some- 
times a desideratum here) may be found. 



Summary of the heights of the Yorkshire and other 
mountains according to Colonel Mudge. 



Penyghent 


2270 


Pendle 


1803 


Ingleborough 


2364 


Fountains Fell 


2190 


Whernside 


2384 


Skiddaw 


3022 


Whernside near 




Helvellyn 


3070 


Kettlewell 


2263 


Snowdon 


3571 



Along the course of the Ribble, northwards, there 
are many objects worthy of the inspection of the tourist. 
These may be most conveniently described in tracing 
a route from Horton to Selside (three miles) and 
Kibble Head ; and from thence, the return by the 
east side of the river. 

To the left of the foot of the first hill on the road 
to Selside is a green patch of ground on the edge of 
the moor, called Bingle Pot Green. Here, in the 
broken ground, there are two or threej impassable 
entrances to a cavity, in which may be heard the roar 
of a subterranean waterfall. 

Selside, a group of about a dozen houses, is situated 
on the declivity which slopes down from Simon's Fell, 
an arm of Ingleborough, towards the river. Half a 



15 



mile westwards, above the village, are Hellen Pot,* 
Diccan Pot, the Long Churn, and other nameless 
caverns, together forming the most remarkable group, 
not only in this cave district, but perhaps in England. 

The guide, Wilcock, will afford all necessary infor- 
mation and assistance in the exploration of these 
caverns. 

Hellen Pot is a terrific chasm, measuring at its 
perpendicular mouth about one hundred and eighty by 
sixty feet. The ground being funnel-shaped around 
the gulf, it has been walled round to prevent the cattle 
from falling in, and it is most dangerous, if not im- 
possible, to approach the edge near enough to obtain a 
view of the lowest perpendicular depth, two hundred 
and fifty feet ; but sufficient may safely be seen to 
strike the spectator with wonder and awe. 

The entrances of the Long Churn and Diccan Pot 
will be found about one hundred and fifty yards N.W. 
from the Pot. They have probably at some period 
formed one continuous cave, but there has been a 
break in the ground, disclosing the present entrances ; 

* Hellen Pot has been variously spelt ; Allan, Alan, Allen, 
and even Alum. It is most probably derived from the Anglo 
Saxon, Helle, and Botin. Diccan, from Die, a dyke. Thirl 
Pot, from Thirlian, to perforate, and Thund Pot, from Thund, 
thunder. The spelling of these names has been given in accord- 
ance with the probable derivations. Although the derivation of 
local names is a most interesting subject it would be unnecessary, 
and foreign to the purposes of this volume to take the same 
liberty with other better known names, 



76 



the two are joined by a branch cave which conveys the 
water from the one to the other down a short fall. 

The lower cavern is called Diccan Pot ; it terminates, 
after a circuitous course of about two hundred yards, 
in the northern extremity of Hellen Pot, sixty feet 
above the landing which is seen from the southern 
edge, and the descent of Hellen Pot has generally been 
accomplished by means of this passage. 

Soon after entering, an opening upwards to the 
surface is passed, and then the course of the stream is 
met with, which must be followed until a branch 
passage is found on the right ; this leads to Hellen 
Pot. The direct course of the cave camiot be pursued 
far, on account of the increasing depth of the water, 
which is supposed to appear again in the waterfall at 
the lowest depths of the Pot. 

Leaving the stream, then, by the branch cave to the 
right the explorer will find himself in the Stalactite 
Passage, which is terminated by a short descent, and 
a pool of water from two to six feet deep. By means 
of a small projection of rock on the left, and a short 
leap, this may be safely crossed. Some distance 
beyond there is another descent, and a pool from one 
to three feet deep, which must be waded ; a narrow 
perpendicular cleft will then be met with, which may 
be easily descended; it leads into a lofty chamber 
called St. Paul's, from whose dome-like roof groups 
of huge Stalactites depend. Another descent of six 



77 



feet, and a scramble round a shallow pool, and the last 
chamber, wide and lofty, and filled with fantastic 
shapes of rock and wreathing spar, is reached. At the 
end of this chamber a gloomy gulf yawns beneath the 
feet, but to the right the light from the mouth of 
Hellen Pot is seen. This solemn vista, by some of 
the few who have seen it, has been not unaptly com- 
pared to a dim cathedral aisle, and the mouth of the 
chasm, with its grass-green margin, to an eastern 
window filled with stained glass. In returning, instead 
of climbing the rock above the pool, a somewhat easier 
ascent will be found at the northern end of the 
chamber; it terminates again in the cave above St. 
Paul's chamber. But to return to Hellen Pot. If the 
two next descents, sixty feet, by means of ladders or 
ropes be made, the interior of the chasm, as seen from 
the surface will be gained. Here the chaotic masses 
of rock on which the spectator stands, the long white 
fall of water down the southern extremity, the black 
and lowering cliffs, with their shrub-fringed summits, 
and the gloomy arching cavern which has just been 
passed, form a scene truly magnificent, and one which 
should be seen to be properly appreciated. 
Below there is another dreary gulf — 

" And in its depth there is a mighty rock 

"Which has, from unimaginable years, 

Sustained itself with terror and with toil 

Over a gulf, and with the agony 

With which it seems to cling seems slowly coming down. 

H 2 



78 



Beneath this crag 
Huge, as despair, as if in weariness, 
The melancholy mountain yawns ; below 
You hear, but see not an impetuous torrent 
Raging among the caverns."* 

Beneath this rock, which spans the gulf, a descent 

of one hundred feet, and a further one of thirty have 

been accomplished, but fatigue or fear prevented the 

explorers from proceeding further. However, a final 

descent was made the following year, 1848, direct from 

the surface, by the assistance of a party of Railway 

Engineers. Two beams were placed across the top, 

and by means of a large bucket and a windlass, a 

party of nine gentlemen were speedily and safely let 

down to the lowest perpendicular depth, the place 

which had been previously reached by successive 

descents when the termination of the cave in Hellen 

Pot was first discovered. After being liberated from 

the bucket, and making the next descent of thirty feet, 

the party followed the stream through a rugged channel 

for about one hundred and seventy feet, when it fell 

twelve or fifteen feet into a large, deep, and gloomy 

hole, full of water, which formed part of the floor of 

a chamber whose roof could not be descried. On 

one side was a waterfall forty feet high, the spray and 

wind from which would have put out the lights if they 

had not been carefully guarded, and after having passed 

* The aptness of this description may pardon its quotation 
from " The Cenci" of Shelley, 



79 



the fall fifty or sixty feet, the explorers reached the 
extremity of the cavern, in a corner of which the 
water sank in a quiet rotary pool, so that further pro- 
gress was impossible.* The water is said to make its 
appearance again at a distance of more than a mile, in 
a deep circular pool near New Houses Tarn, across 
the river, and the truth of this is founded on the fact 
that, when the marble quarries were formerly worked, 
the water in the pool had the same turbid appearance 
as the stream above the Pot. 

The Long Churn is a beautiful cavern, about three 
hundred yards in length, but free during its course 
from pools, creeping places, or descents. The roof is 
flat, and sometimes variegated with intersecting lines of 
white spar, which give it the appearance of a tesselated 
pavement.f At the termination there is a large and 
deep basin, into which the stream descends with a 
short and rapid fall ; above, the daylight may be seen, 
and by the help of a rope or short ladder, the explorer 
may once more emerge on the surface. There are 
other caverns in the neighbourhood, but none of more 
than ordinary interest. 

The summit of Ingleborough may be reached from 

* The total depth of Hellen Pot is computed to be three 
hundred and thirty two feet. 

f Some years ago these caverns were rich in every variety of 
stalactite and stalagmite, but some Vandals carried immense 
quantities away, and hawked them for sale. 



80 



Selside by Simon Fell, but the route is tedious, and 
not so pleasing as those from Clapham, Ingleton, or 
Chapel-le-dale. 



Selside to Ingleton, by the road seven, by the bridle 
path five miles. 

Selside to Weathercote, by footpath, three miles. 
Gearstones, three miles. 



There is a footpath through the fields by Lodge 
Hall, which saves nearly a mile of the walk to 
Gearstones, and near to this track, a short distance 
before coming into the road again, the spring called 
Ribble Head will be found. Though this is usually 
called the source of the river, a considerable stream, 
rising in the moors eastwards, at no great distance 
from the fountain head of the Wharfe, flows through 
a neighbouring rocky glen called Thorns Gill, and 
supplies to the river a much greater quantity of water 
than the so-called Ribble Head ; the spring however, 
by immemorial usage, claims the honour of being the 
source, and the inhabitants of the dale admit of no 
scepticism on the point. 

On the right bank of Thorns Gill is Katnot Cave, 
which may be penetrated to a distance of about five 
hundred yards. It is in most parts narrow, but of con- 
venient height, and occasionally lofty. Mr. Hutton's 
tour, which has been already quoted, has the following 



81 



description of the cave. " The rocks jutted out and 
were pendent in every grotesque and fantastical shape ; 
most of them were covered with a fine coating of spar, 
that looked like alabaster, while icicles of various 
shapes and colours were pendent from the roof; all 
generated by the fine particles of stone that exist in 
the water which transudes through the roof and sides. 
The various coloured reflections made by the spar and 
petrifactions that abounded in every part, entertained 
the eye with the greatest novelty and variety ; while 
at the same time the different notes made by the rill 
in its little cascades, and reverberated from the hollow 
rocks, amused the ear with a new sort af subterranean 
music, but well enough suited to our slow and solemn 
march." Perhaps in 1789 these "icicles and petri- 
factions" were not carried off, or mutilated, as they are 
now. 



The Inn at Gearstones will be found a comfortable 
place of rest. From the sitting room window there is 
an excellent view of the valley southwards. 
Gearstones to Chapel-le-dale, three miles. 
Dent, nine miles. 
Hawes, nine miles. 
Sedbergh, sixteen miles. 
Low Gill Station, twenty one miles. 
Linn Gill Bridge, two miles. 



The singular and beautiful valley of Dent, with its 
marble-paved river, and the lower part of Wensley- 
DALE present many attractions to the tourist. In the 
latter dale are Hardrow Scar and Waterfall, several 
falls in Mossdale and above Gale, Mill Gill, near 
Askrigg, Bow Foss, and several cataracts of the Yore, 
at Aysgarth : the general scenery too of the dale is 
very beautiful. Near Sedbergh the most remarkable 
objects are How Gill Fells and the Calf, Black Foss, a 
tremendous chasm and waterfall, and Cautley Spout, a 
succession of cascades, measuring altogether eight 
hundred and sixty feet. 

Linn Gill, a noble specimen of the mountain ravine, 
is on the return route to Horton. A picturesque 
bridge crosses the stream just as it tumbles with a 
succession of falls into a deep and long glen, and winds 
or leaps along a chaotic mass of rocks and detached 
blocks of stone. The steep sides are clothed with 
luxuriant foliage, and the interlacing branches, the 
moss-grown precipices, the shelving banks, and the 
rugged bed of the water, render the exploration of the 
glen no very easy task. 

Near Old Ing, the second farm house on the road to 
Horton, another stream falls into a deep chasm, and 
emerges again a quarter of a mile below, through a 
cavern called Brow Gill. The entrance to this cavern 
is lofty and imposing for some distance, it then turns 
to the left through a creeping place, and leaving the 



83 



course of the stream, opens into a chamber of immense 
height, and strewn with huge blocks of a compact 
fossil limestone, that appear to have fallen from the 
roof. After a narrow and somewhat difficult passage 
onwards, there is another lofty chamber, into which a 
cascade falls down a height of thirty feet, but above 
this the explorer is soon stopped by the contracted 
passage. 

Near Birkwith, the next house, is another cave, 
extending to a distance of five or six hundred yards, 
but it is not lofty, and generally contains an incon- 
venient amount of water. 

On the right of the road from hence a small Tarn 
will be seen. It is very deep and has excellent feeding, 
but on account of the want of an in-running stream the 
fish do not breed. It is occasionally stocked with trout 
from the river, and there being no perch or pike in the 
place, they grow rapidly to a large size. 

Near New Houses, one mile from Horton, are the 
chasms of Jackdaw Hole and Sel Gill ; the former is 
broad, but of no great depth, and is easily explored ; 
down the latter three successive descents have been 
made, altogether about one hundred feet, but the 
bottom has not been reached. 

The pedestrian in walking over the moors and pas- 
tures about the bases of Ingleborough and Penyghent 
will have continually noticed funnel shaped cavities, 
generally two or three or more in succession ; these no 



doubt indicate the course of caverns ; indeed a fall of 
earth not unfrequently discloses an entrance. If such 
be invariably the fact, this is, par excellence, entitled 
to the name of the Cave District. 



At Horton the Lion may be recommended as a 
comfortable Inn. 

Horton to Clapham, six miles. 

Ingleton, by Clapham, ten miles. 
Ingleton, by Selside, eight miles. 
Litton, seven miles. 




85 




Chapter VI.— INGLEBOROUGH. 

TIEW FROM LAWKLAND NORBER BOWDERS — WHARFE GILL — 

CLAPHAM CHURCH LAKE — INGLEBOROTJGH CAYE — 

CLABDALE TROW GILL GAPING GILL HOLE — INGLE- 
BOROUGH ROUTES INNS INGLETON— CHAPEL-LE -DALE 

WEATHERCOTE GATEKIRK — ITESC AR — SUMMIT OF 

INGLEBOROUGH WHERNSIDE — THORNTON — KINGSDALE 

— YORDAS CAYE — LUNESDALE, &C. 



The traveller on the North Western Railway, on 
emerging from the cuttings of Paley Green and Lawk- 
land is suddenly greeted with a new and splendid view. 



86 



Not the summit only of Ingleborough, as heretofore, is 
seen, but all its noble outline, its colossal arms, and the 
wide uplands, and auxiliary hills that form its base ; 
and eastwards is the fine group of rocks and wooded 
elevations, that shelter at their feet the villages of 
Austwick, Wharfe, and Feizor, and join the Eibbles- 
dale hills at Crownest, and Moughton. 

On the hill called Norber, above Austwick, there is 
a most remarkable group of Bowder Stones ; there 
are several hundreds of them standing in the most 
eccentric postures ; some are poised on single pivots, 
others apparently standing erect in spite of their 
divergence from the centre of gravity, and the outline 
of others bears a fantastic resemblance to some living 
or inanimate thing. The largest contain about four 
hundred cubic feet, and will therefore weigh little less 
than thirty tons. The crust of the hill is limestone, 
but below its edge may be seen the junction with the 
slate, the same as the Bowders. From this elevation 
there is an excellent view, especially along the valley 
which terminates in Bibblesdale, at Swarth Moor, 
and in this direction, "Wharfe Gill, a deep wooded 
glen with stream and waterfall, will be seen. 

The nearest route from Settle to the top of Ingle- 
borough is by the bridle path on the right from the top 
of Buckhaw Brow to Feizor, through Wharfe, and by 
a farm house on the fell, called Crummock. 

The Clapham Station is one mile and a half from the 



87 



village, at Wenning Bank, where the line crosses a 
ravine, and the Lancaster branch diverges. 

Much as Clap HAM is favoured in its site, it is not 
less indebted to the care and taste of W. J. and O. 
Farrer, Esqrs. for its present picturesque appearance. 
The many good houses, the neat cottages, the absence 
of squalid poverty, the carefully-kept plantations and 
gardens that clothe the banks of the stream, the 
beautifully situated mansion, and its extensive grounds, 
make this one of the most pleasing villages in the 
district. 

The Church is a neat and modem edifice, replacing 
a building of late Gothic, and the original Norman 
structure.* It is annexed to the Archdeaconry of 
Richmond, or rather to the see of Chester, in which 
that once wealthy body is now vested* The site of an 
archidiaconal mansion is indicated by the name of 
Archdeacon's Croft, still preserved. 

Behind the church the stream issues from an arch, 
and down an artificial fall constructed in the embank- 
ment which was thrown up some years ago, in order to 
convert the narrow valley above into a lake. A walk 
of a mile and a half along the left bank of this sheet 
of water, and through grounds which bear no mean 
resemblance to some parts of Bolton woods, will bring 

* An instance of the not uncommon feat of punning on the 
dead may be seen on one of the monuments. 

11 Place, Vicar once of this place, here doth lie," &c. 



88 



the tourist to Ingleborough Cave. Harrison, the 
guide, who resides in the higher part of the village, 
accompanies visitors through the cave, and provides 
them amply with lights. He expects a gratuity of a 
shilling per head for his services. 

The entrance, at the foot of an imposing canopy of 
rock, relieved by moss-grown trees, overhanging foliage 
and trailing ivy, is in itself a most attractive spot ; but 
the candles being lit, and the iron gate passed, a far 
different scene is entered upon. This is the old cave, 
which has long been known, and despoiled of most of 
its ornaments, the tesselated markings of the roof, and 
a few dusky petrifactions being all that remain. After 
proceeding about sixty yards the new Cave is entered i 
it was discovered about twelve years ago, and the water 
having been drained off, considerable excavations made, 
and a pathway and other conveniences constructed, 
every part of this unequalled cavern is rendered per- 
fectly accessible even to the most timid. 

The particular measurements and the distances from 
chamber to chamber being uninteresting compared with 
the general beauties of the cave, it may suffice to state 
that the distance from the gate to the Gothic arch is 
two hundred and sixty yards, but the entire length as 
far as it has been hitherto explored, is one thousand 
yards. 

It is almost impossible for any description to convey 
a just impression of the many and diversified beauties 



89 



of the different passages and chambers of the cave. — 
In the centre of one chamber there is a perfect column 
of spar between the roof and the floor, half a foot in 
diameter. There are stalagmites standing like un- 
finished statuettes, and slowly growing under the 
continual dropping of the water, and sometimes the 
same drop is tediously working at the junction of a 
stalagmite with its fellow stalactite above. Here there is 
the perfect model of a beehive, and there the semblance 
of a little fort with its turrets and ramparts. In one 
place the white surface of an incrustation is densely 
corrugated, and breaks into little sparkling waves the 
water that flows over it. In another there are thin 
projecting plates of spar, which, when lightly struck, 
utter the sweetest bell-toned sounds. Sometimes the 
roof is flat, and beautifully tesselated with white inter- 
secting lines ; sometimes it is lofty and irregular ; then 
it forms a low and regularly depressed arch ; and again 
it is like the groined ceiling of a Gothic archway ; and 
everywhere 

" The mountain's frozen tears 
Like snow, or silver, or long diamond spires, 
Hang downwards, raining forth a doubtful light." 

Sometimes a multitude of these elegant ornaments fill 
the side passages and clefts, long, clear, and tapering, 
like branching coral, or inverted shrubs, or clustering 
round a larger one like the lustres of a chandelier, 
and here and there they are reflected in the mirror of 

I 2 



90 



a little translucent pool. A white line of calcareous 
concretion in some places marks the height at which 
the water once stood ; now it stands only in still 
pellucid pools, or rippling along a channel makes the 
only sound that breaks the "weird stillness" of the 
place. 

Beyond the termination to which visitors are usually 
conducted the cave has been penetrated to a distance of 
some hundred yards, but it is accessible only to the 
swimmer and the adventurous explorer. 

The valley in which Ingleborough Cave is situated is 
called CLABDALE, and a farm house some little distance 
up the left side bears the same name, and is the repre- 
sentative of an ancient mansion. 

In a manuscript in the possession of George Hartley, 
Esq., of Settle, entitled, "A copy of a book in folio, 
No. 804 in the Harleian Collection", and professing to 
be collected from the writings of Dodsworth, it is said ; 
" Here I find the following entry : Clapdale, a great old 
castle, joyning on Clapham, the antient desmesne of the 
family of Clapham, who have lived here in good repu- 
tation till our fathers' days. This Clapdale castle hath 
been very large and strong, and standeth on the skirt 
of Ingleborow, which shooteth towards Clapham, &c, 
&c." But alas for the Castle of Clabdale ! Dr. 
Whittaker in his History of Bichmondshire severely 
says, " This extravagant fiction, the joint product of 
vanity and venal falsehood, will shortly be exposed ; 



91 



and the Castle of Clabdale only requires a slight 
inspection to reduce it to an ordinary hall-house, of 
some strength and little compass, intended, like a 
hundred others in the North of England, to protect 
its inhabitants against sudden predatory attack. The 
walls are of grout work, and five feet thick, and within 
the last century the roof was covered with lead." 

From Ingleborough Cave the road leads on to the 
wide moor at the foot of the mountain. On the left 
there is a romantic pass between two towering cliffs, 
called TROW Gill ; this may be ascended without 
difficulty, and the road again met with on the right. 

About three quarters of a mile onwards, a deep 
gloomy gulf will be found, called Gaping Gill Hole. 
A considerable stream descends into it, and makes its 
appearance again close to the entrance of the Cave. 
This chasm has been descended to a depth of one 
hundred and ninety feet, and there is no landing place 
until this depth is reached. 

Ingleborough may be ascended anywhere on this 
side, but the route across the moors, especially after 
wet weather, is tedious and difficult, until the cart track 
which winds up the mountain is met with. The easiest 
and most gradual ascent is from the old road between 
Clapham and Ingleton, about half way between the 
two villages, and there is a cart road from this point 
to the summit. 






92 



ROUTES. 

Clapham to Ingleton, four miles. 

Kirkby Lonsdale, ten miles. 
Bentham, six miles. 
Lancaster, eighteen miles. 
Settle, six miles. 
Horton, six miles. 



INNS. 
At Clapham, the New Inn, and the Bull and Cave. 
At Ingleton, the Bay Horse, and the Bridge Inn. 



" Ingleton", says Mr. Gray, " is a pretty village, 
situated very high, and yet in a valley at the foot of 
that huge monster of nature, Ingleborough ; two 
torrents cross it, with great stones rolled along their 
beds instead of water, and over are flung two handsome 
arches," It is true there is commonly but a scanty 
supply of water, yet the rugged beds show how full 
and impetuous the streams sometimes are. They bear 
the names of the Doe and the Greta, the former flowing 
from Kingsdale, and the latter from Ingleton Fells. 
Near their junction, and on the very edge of the ravine 
stands the Parochial Chapel. It is of considerable 
antiquity, most probably of the twelfth century. 
Though modernized without, its improvers have judi- 
ciously retained the original arches and columns ; the 
first semicircular, the second cylindrical, but not 



93 



massive, features, which together with the omission of 
a cross arch to separate the nave from the choir, are 
uniformly met with in the churches in Ewcross. 
Within the church is a very curious and beautiful 
Norman font, well worthy of the inspection of the 
antiquarian. The various views of scenery about 
Ingleton have few superiors in the North of England. 
Those from the churchyard, and the hill above the 
village, from the opposite side of the Greta, and the 
road to Burton may be more particularly pointed out, 
and the more contracted scenes of rock and stream in 
the two branching valleys will well repay their explo- 
ration. The rocks and falls of the Greta, a solitary 
dyke of igneous rock, and the quarries of blue roofing 
slate, claim a visit, and then the road to Chapel-LE- 
Dale, a distance of four miles, is pursued along a 
desolate valley. Long limestone ranges bound it on 
both sides, broken only by rifts, down which descend 
the mountain streams, whilst above them the bleak and 
furrowed sides of Ingleborough on the right, and 
When] side on the left, impart additional wildness and 
gloom to the scene. In the middle of the valley the 
stream gushes out of several fountains, after having run 
about two miles underground, though making its 
appearance in two or three places within that distance. 
In a flood it runs above ground also, and is the subter- 
ranean river mentioned in Goldsmiths Natural History 
under the name of the Greatah. 



94 



On arriving near the termination of the valley, a 
few trees and meadows, and scattered houses, again 
indicate the reclaiming hand of cultivation, and 

" a little wyde 
There is an holy chapell edifyde." 

"On three sides of the chapel yard there is an 

irregular, low stone wall, rather to mark the limits of 

the sacred ground than to enclose it ; on the fourth it is 

bounded by a brook, whose waters proceed by a 

subterranean channel from Weathercote Cave. Two 

or three alders and rowan trees hang over the brook, 

and shed their leaves and seeds into the stream. Some 

bushy hazels grow at intervals along the lines of the 

walls, and a few ash trees, as the wind has sown them. 

To the east and west some fields adjoin it, in that state 

of half-cultivation which gives a human character to 

solitude ; to the south, on the other side of the brook, the 

common, with its limestone rocks peering everywhere 

above ground, extends to the foot of Ingleborough. A 

craggy hill, feathered with birch, shelters it from the 

north. The turf is as soft and fine as that of the 

adjoining hills ; it is seldom broken, so scanty is the 

population to which it is appropriated ; scarcely a thistle 

or a nettle deforms it, and the few tombstones which 

have been placed there, are now themselves half-buried. 

The sheep come over the wall when they list, and 

sometimes take shelter in the porch from the storm. 

Their voices, and the cry of the kite wheeling above> 



95 



are the only sounds which are heard there, except 
when the single bell, which hangs in its niche over the 
entrance, tinkles for service on the Sabbath Day, or 
with a slower tongue gives notice that one of the 
children of the soil is returning to the earth from 
whence he sprung."* 

Hurtle Pot is about eighty yards above the chapel ; 
it is a nearly circular chasm, around whose sloping 
mouth the numerous trees " curtain out the day" and 
give additional gloom to the place. The entire depth is 
one hundred feet, twenty seven of which are occupied 
by a dark pool, down to the margin of which a steep 
and slippery path descends. After heavy rains a 
singular noise, called by the country people, " The 
Hurtle Pot Bog g art ^ is heard, apparently proceeding 
from the surface of the water ; it is caused by the 
glutting of the swollen pool against the rock. Large 
dark-coloured trout are frequently caught in it. 

Two hundred yards further up the glen is Gingle 
Pot, situated at the bottom of a precipice twenty four 
feet high. Its depth is forty six feet, and the bottom is 
covered with water-worn stones, except at the south 
corner, where the water appears. 

These chasms are connected with each other, and 
with Weathercote Cave above, by subterranean pass- 
ages, and after heavy rains, when the Cave is half full, 
they overflow, and if the flood continue, they boil over 
* The Doctor, v. l,p. 57. 



9G 



with great violence ; sometimes in Gingle Pot the 
upward force of the water is so strong that it throws 
up stones from the bottom the size of an egg, and 
leaves them on the bank. 

But the most interesting of these natural curiosities 
is Weatheroote Cave. To obtain admission, appli- 
cation must be made at the neighbouring house, the 
residence of Mr. Metcalf, the ow 7 ner. After descending 
a depth of forty feet, down a rude flight of steps, the 
waterfall is first seen ; but a little below this point, a 
natural arch spans the chasm overhead, and when this 
is passed, the visitor will pause at a view, the effect of 
which, few other combinations of w r ater, rock, and 
foliage could produce. 

In the opposite cliff, thirty feet below the surface, a 
large fragment of rock is wedged in the middle of a 
cavern, and from beneath it the torrent gushes forth, 
and dashes down a depth of seventy five feet, with 
M A loud lone sound no other sound can tame." 

A cloud of white spray rises from the bottom, and 
glosses with its moisture all the surrounding rocks. 
The black moss-grown cliffs tower high above, and 
their margins are beautifully fringed 

u With meeting boughs and implicated leaves." 

The descent to the bottom is along confused debris 
of rocks, after scrambling over which, the visitor 
will reach the wide overhanging canopy of a cavern, 
and from thence he may get behind the fall at 



97 



the expense of a wetting, unless the water be more 
than usually low. 

For about two hours in the middle of the day, when 
the sun shines, a small but vivid rainbow is formed by 
the spray. 

After rains another cascade falls down from the 
western cliff, and leaps irregularly from rock to rock, 
and a stream issues from the higher part of the chasm 
near the arch. If the flood increase, numerous small 
cascades and jets of water gush from the clefts on 
every side, and at length a torrent bursts over the 
eastern side, and the cave becomes a foaming and 
overflowing abyss. 

Having ascended to the surface, the visitor will find 
a path through the trees on the right, which leads to a 
point where he may see the waterfall without so much 
of its accompanying gloom. A narrow ledge will be 
observed communicating with the cave, from which 
the water issues; this has been crossed, but nothing 
found within the cavity to reward so dangerous a feat. 

Gatekirk is a large cavern one mile north east from 
"Weathercote, and traversed by the Greta, which forms 
a deep transparent basin at the entrance. The roof is 
thickly studded with stalactites. There is a raised 
gallery parallel with the stream, and various passages 
branch from the main cavern. After proceeding eighty 
yards the explorer again emerges on the surface. 

To the north west, under Whernside, there is a 

K 



98 



farm house called Ivescar, close to which is a small 
branching cavern. The stream which flows through it 
has at different times during floods washed out small 
silver coins of the reign of Edward I, and there is a 
tradition current in the neighourhood of a hidden 
treasure somewhere under the hill. 

On the summit of Whernside there are several 
small tarns. The view of the surrounding country is 
not so diversified and extensive as that from Ingle- 
borough or Penyghent, and the general features and 
outline of the mountain are not so interesting. The 
valley immediately below the western face of the 
mountain is Kingsdale, in which is Yordas Cave, but 
the usual route to it is from Ingleton and Thornton 
Foss. 

On the ascent to Ingleborough, in the third pasture 
from the Hill's Inn, is Douk Cave ; its entrance is 
is near the bottom of a vast funnel-shaped depression, 
and a short climb up a rock must be accomplished to 
reach it. Immediately on the left, after entering, there 
is a curious chamber, not very easy to reach, which is 
full of the most beautiful groups of stalactites. A 
short distance on, the daylight is admitted again from 
the surface, through a bush-fringed chasm ; beyond, 
the cave is very varied and interesting, and may be 
penetrated to a distance of about seven hundred yards. 
Its termination on the surface is known, but it is 
impossible to emerge there. 



99 



The Summit of Ingleborough is a broad table- 
land, nearly a mile in circumference, from most points 
of which very varied and extensive prospects are 
obtained. A vast extent of country from the north 
east to the north west lies stretched beneath the eye 
like a map, with its roads, rivers, villages, towns, hills, 
woods, capes, and bays. The eye will traverse along 
the line of coast from the northern extremity of 
Morecambe Bay, and Piel Castle, its ancient bulwark, 
dimly descried ; past the estuaries of the Kibble, the 
Mersey, and the Dee, until in the far distance may be 
distinguished the Flintshire Hills, and the Great 
Ormes Head. By the aid of a telescope the Isle of 
Man may sometimes be made out. 

The direct visual distance from the summit of 
Ingleborough to that of Lancaster Castle is, according 
to Mr. Nixon, seventeen miles and three quarters. 
This may serve as a standard by which the spectator 
may judge of other distances around. The northern 
view is terminated by a beautiful group of the Lake 
mountains, several of which will be readily distin- 
guished by their outlines, such as Langdale Pikes, Old 
Man and Black Comb. 

Ingleborough was probably occupied by the Bomans 
as the site of Castra Exploratoria in connection with 
Overborough,* the Bremetonacoe of Antoninus. The 

* The classic ground of Overborough is situated between 
Melling and Kirkby Lonsdale. Borough Hall, an elegant man- 

LofC. 



100 



correspondence between the Saxon names Ingleborough, 
Hill of Fire, and Overborough, together with the rel- 
ative positions of the places, strongly confirm this 
opinion. No Roman remains, however, have been 
found, unless the curious circles on the level, apparently 
formed by the throwing up of the surrounding soil, be 
considered such. It has been suggested that they are 
indications of Druidical worship, in ludicrous contrast 
with which opinion, is another statement, that they are 
the result of horse races, which, some fifty years ago, 
were held on this lofty ground. 

On the western edge of the summit are the remains 
of what has generally been considered to have been an 
ancient beacon, a wall eighteen feet long by four feet 
thick, with a flight of steps up one extremity. Ad- 
joining this are also the scanty ruins of a watch tower ; 
they were most probably erected and in constant use 
during the times of the Scottish incursions. Some 
years ago a new tower was erected by subscription, 
but it soon gave way under the weight of its dome and 
the storms, and it is now a heap of ruins. 

There are several springs of water near the summit, 
particularly one, a short distance below the northern 



sion of the last century, is erected on the Prcetorium. The 
Roman road is traceable from Ribchester, by Slaidburn, Tatham 
Chapel, and Bentham, to Overborough, and from thence through 
Casterton and Middleton, but it is uncertain whether it proceeded 
thence to Appleby or Brough. 



101 



edge, called Fairweather Syke, which runs into a long 
and deep chasm called Meir Gill ; should the tourist 
return to Chapel-le-Dale, he may visit this place, as 
well as a deep funnel-shaped pit called Barefoot Wives 
Hole. Near the road above the Hill's Inn are two 
cairns, one of which has been opened, and a skeleton 
enclosed in its rude coffin of stones discovered ; the 
other has not been examined. Of these Dr. Whittaker 
says, " I have seen so many instances of such 
memorials of great but forgotten engagements in the 
mountainous parts of the island, on the little plains at 
the summit of two valleys, where two hostile tribes, 
marching in opposite directions would have space for 
open encounter, that I am led almost to expect them, 
if not removed, as a matter of course." 



Chapel-le-Dale to Gearstones, three miles. 
Selside, six miles. 
Selside, by footpath, four miles. 
Dent, ten miles. 



From Ingleton to Thornton the distance is one 
mile. It can hardly be called even a hamlet, inasmuch 
as the Church and a very comfortable Inn are the 
only buildings. 

The interior of the Church is unusually pleasing ; 
at the western end of the north side it has three 
circular arches with some Norman enrichments, an 

& 2 



102 



appearance rarely seen in this neighbourhood, where 
both arches and capitals are quite plain. Two arches 
eastwards from these, as well as those on the south 
side, are of later date, but with cylindrical columns. 
The tower is probably of the fifteenth century, and the 
rest of the fabric has been modernized about the same 
time. The modern and miserably glazed window 
inserted in the south wall is very unsightly. Several 
of the epitaphs merit a perusal.* 

At a distance of between two and three miles, across 
the pastures eastwards, is Thornton Foss. Here the 
stream falls over a precipice to the depth of sixty feet, 
into a deep black basin, then courses along the deep 
glen, among chaotic rocks, and through precipitous 
passes to meet the Greta. The white volume of falling 
water, the rising mists of spray, the cliff, mantled with 
shrubs and ivy, and the wild mountain scenery around, 
form a landscape not less complete and interesting than 
any in the neighbourhood. 

A few hundred yards above the fall is a rocky pass 
called Ravenwray, and further still, a copious fountain 
called Keld Head, the principal source of the river. 

* A messenger may be sent from the Inn to Whitingdale, 
the guide to Yordas Cave, who lives at Masongill, out of the 
visitor's route. He meets parties at the Cave, and charges tiva 
shillings per head for the two first, and one shilling each for 
the rest. 



Thornton to Yordas, four miles. 



103 



Returning to the road which traverses Kingsdale, 
the tourist will find himself in a desolate valley, 
enclosed between the mountains of Greygarth and 
Breadagarth. There are but two houses in it, before 
reaching which, near the termination of the valley, a 
plantation of firs on the left, in which the Cave is 
situated, will be seen. 

Unlike others which the tourist may have visited, 
this cavern, after a low-browed entrance is passed, will 
be found to consist mainly of one vast chamber, one 
hundred and sixty feet by eighty, and in some places 
perhaps eighty feet high. Some few large and dusky 
stalactites may be seen, but the calcareous incrustations 
on the eastern wall are remarkably fine, and have been 
compared to escutcheons, armour, and trophies hung in 
some baronial hall ; they have severally obtained the 
names of the Brown Bear, the Coat of Mail, the 
Gauntlet, the Barn's Head and the Organ. 

In the north east corner there is a canopy supported 
by wreathed pillars, called the Bishop's Throne. Turn- 
ing to the left there is a narrow passage leading into 
the Chapter House, a beautiful chamber with a dome- 
like roof, into which a cascade thirty feet in height 
descends down the rock, the water, except in floods, 
finding its way out underground. If the water, on 
entering this chamber, should be considered an obstacle, 
a partial view of the chamber and fall may be obtained 
through an oval aperture in the rock, more to the left. 



104 



A short distance up the glen, above the cave, the water 
falls into a chasm, and by the assistance of ropes or 
ladders the cave might no doubt be reached through 
this entrance. 

Under Greygarth are two chasms called Gingling 
Cave and Rowtand Hole, similar to the many others 
which have been described. 

With Ingleton, the peculiar features of scenery, and 
the natural curiosities which have characterized the 
district through which the tourist has been conducted, 
may be said to terminate, inasmuch as he now leaves 
the great range of mountain limestone, as it turns 
suddenly to the north, and is entering on the widely- 
expanded stratum of slate rocks. It only remains 
therefore to enumerate the objects of interest which he 
may meet with in the valley of the Lune. They are 
Kirkby Lonsdale, Casterton Hall and "Woods, the 
Ravines, Caves, and "Waterfalls of Easgill in Casterton 
Fells, Farleton Knot, Underley, Overborough, Thur- 
land Castle, Hornby Castle, Robert Hall, Dunald Mill 
Hole, Lancaster, and the various beautiful river scenes 
along the course of the Lune. 

Passing through Lunesdale the North Western Rail- 
way now affords to tourists from the south and east of 
England a direct means of transit to the Lakes, and 
offers to them, as a fitting introduction to that romantic 
district, the natural curiosities and peculiar scenery of 
Craven; and to those who are journeying from the 



105 



north, they will form a gratifying sequel to what has 
been already seen and enjoyed. 

Wensleydale, and some of its scenery have already 
been noticed. The tourist in search of the picturesque, 
and the artist, will find in its retired dales many most 
attractive scenes ; and the Geologist, in addition to the 
pleasure derived from the contemplation of the external 
aspect of nature, will find that nowhere is there ampler 
scope for the investigation of the peculiar phenomena 
and configuration attendant on the mountain limestone 
series. 




107 



THE CEAVEN DIALECT. 



As the subject of Dialects is an interesting one, and 
that of Craven has decided claims on an Anglo-Saxon 
origin, and is unusually free from mere slang, a cursory 
review of it may not improperly find a place in this 
volume. 

The tourist will meet with oral specimens in the 
peculiar intonation which no orthography can convey, 
and as the usual dialectic specimens in the form of 
dialogues can hardly be redeemed from the charge of 
vulgarity, a short specimen and a selected list only of 
some of the words and phrases may suffice. 

The late Rev. Wm. Carr, of Bolton, an enthusiast in 
every thing relating to Craven, says, " I am more and 
more convinced that my native language is not the 
contemptible slang and patois which the refined inhab- 
itants of the southern part of the kingdom are apt to 
consider it ; but that it is the language of crowned 
heads, of the Court, and of the most eminent English 
Historians, Divines, and Poets of former ages". That 
there is some truth in this statement is shown by the 
readiness with which most Craven words may be 



108 



derived from the Anglo Saxon and other Germanic 
languages, and their constant recurrence in such authors 
as Gawin Douglas, Chaucer, Gower, Lydgate, and the 
early Elizabethan Poets. 

Although the natives of Lancashire claim for their 
dialect a Saxon origin, the peculiarly pastoral character 
of Craven, and its freedom from an excess of manufac- 
turing population argue in favour of the antiquity and 
purity of its dialect, and there is certainly more of 
euphony in the Craven than in the open-mouthed dialect 
of Lancashire. In the district ranging from Halifax 
to Colne, at Howarth, and Heptonstall, the one insen- 
sibly merges into the other ; and again in the valley 
of Dent,* towards Sedberg, and Hawes, the Craven 
gradually assimilates itself to the Westmorland dialect. 
Dr. Whittaker makes the curious suggestion that the 
two northern scholars of Strother, whom Chaucer has 
made the subject of his Beeves Tale, sprang from 
Langstrothdale, and says that their dialect, evidently 
not the language of the author, is precisely the modern 
dialect of Craven, thus : — 

" Our Manciple I hope he will be dede 
Swa werkes aye the wanges in his hede 
And therefore is I come and eke Alayn, 
We pray you spede us heme in that ye maye." 

* In the VII Vol. of the Doctor an excellent specimen of 
the Dent dialect is given, entitled "A wonderful story ot terrible 
knitters ee Dent". 



109 



a I is full swift as is a Baa." 
" He shall nat skape us bathe." 
" Why ne hadst thou put put the Capel in the Lathe? 
And Whittaker adds that he is inclined to believe 
the story a real one, or at least that Chaucer had heard 
the dialect of Alan and John in Solere Hall. 

Home Tooke remarks that Gawin Douglas's lan- 
guage, though written a century after Chaucer, must 
yet be esteemed more antient; even as the present 
English speech in Scotland is in many respects more 
antient than that spoken so far back as the reign of 
Queen Elizabeth. So Casaubon says of his time, " The 
Scottish language is purer than the English of the 
present day, where by " purer" he means nearer to the 
Anglo-Saxon. 

As a specimen of the continual occurrence of Craven 
words, phrases, and pronunciation in Douglas, note this 
passage in his preface : 
" Thocht sum wald sware that I the text have varyit, 
Or that I have this volume quite miscaryit, 
Or threpe planelie I come never nere hand it, 
Or that the werk is werst that ever I fand it. 
Be not ouer studious to spy ane mote in myn JE". 
Further quotations from the same author will be 
found in the following brief list of Craven words. 
Keif. A fist. Islandic, Nefi. 

"Give me your neif, Monsieur Mustard Seed." — 
Midsummer Nights Bream. 



110 



Fain. Glad. A. S., Feagn. 

" For which they were as glad of his commyng 

As foule is faine when the sonne upryseth." — > Chaucer. 

Mell. Meddle, Fr. Meier ? Frequent in Spenser, 
&c. 

Maar. More. Pure Dutch, A. S., Mare. 

An. If. An is imperative of A. S, Anan, to give, as 
if is imperative of Gifan, to give. " An you had 
any eye you might see more detraction at your 
heels than fortunes before you." — Twelfth Night. 
" An I take the humour of a thing once, I am like 
your tailor's needle, I go through." — Ben Jonson. 

Gang. To go. A. S., Gangan. Gang-day, Rogation 
Day. Hence also Gangway in a ship. 

Isteead on. Instead of, Danish, Istceden. A. S., 
Stede, a place. Commonly in composition as Gap- 
steead, Door-steead, Fire-steead, &c. Of an obstinate 
fellow, "He'll gang through if t' King's it Gapsteead." 

Varra. Very. Fr., vrai. Anciently written veray 
both in French and English. 

Scunner. Dislike. A. S., Ascunian, to shun. 

Hackly and Ahmackly. Most likely. A. S., Macan, 
to make, and Lie, like, the origin of the adverbial 
affix, ly. Likely in A. S. would be Liclic, hence they 
say " Better an like", Better than likely. Indeed 
they seldom or never use likely. Thus also their 
" Goodlike" is purer Saxon than Goodly. 

Wae worth ye. Woe be to you. A. S., Weorthan, 



Ill 



which in Anglo-Saxon and English is incorporated 

with Beon, to be. 

" Wo worth the fayre gem vertulesse, 
Wo worth that herbe that doth no bote, 
Wo worth the beaute that is ruthlesse, 
Wo worth that wight trede eche under fote." 

— Chaucer. 
Knaw. To know. A. S., Cnawan. 
Efter. After. A. S., CEfter. 
Aid. Old. A., S., Eald. Hence looal names, Aldgate, 

Aldstone, &c. 
Bigg. To build. A. S., Byogan. Occurs in Chaucer. 
Braad. Ye braad o* me. You are like me, i. e., you 

are of the same breed as me. A. S., Brceden. 
Knoll. To ring a funeral bell. A. S., Cnyllan, Hence 

also Knell. Toll, absurdly derived from " Tollo", is a 

corruption of Knoll. 
Bank. A beam. Teutonic, Balcke. 
Beeal. To cry out. A. S., Boel, Grief. In Chaucer. 
Esh. The ash. Teutonic, Esche. 
Ask. Dry. Perhaps from Teutonic, Ascha, Ashes. 
Tak Uncuth. To take offence. A. S., Uncuth, strange, 

unusual, uncouth. Of a cross chili, " Tothers hes 

been good uns maks us tak uncuth at it". 
Wallow. Insipid. A. S., Walgen, to Loathe. 
Poddish. A slight corruption of pottage, not porridge. 

Fr. Potage. ft Poddish is wallow bout saut." 
Digging, A roof. A. S., Wrigan, to cover. 



112 



Swop. To exchange. A. S., Swipan, to sweep ; where 
by consent of the parties each sweeps off his share. 

Scale. To spread. A. S., to divide or separate. "T 
shall tell you a pretty tale. It may bo you have 
heard it, but since it serves my purpose, I will ven- 
ture to scale it a little more." — Coriolanus. 

Else. Short for Alice. Curiously enough the English 
word " else" is in like manner contracted from the 
ancient Alyse, Alys, Alles, Elles. 

Pleean. To complain. A. S., Pleah, a plea. 

Clem. To hunger. A. S., Clemian. 

Yeat. A gate. A. S., Geat. G in Anglo-Saxon was 
indifferently pronounced as G or Y. 

Yowl. To howl. Gyllan. ( See Yeat, above.) Howl 
is as likely to have sprung from this source as from 
the Latin Ululo. 

Mesh. Tender, squeamish. A. S., Nescian, to soften. 

Kitting. Kitten. Ling, a Saxon diminutive. 

Leet. Light. A. S., Leant. 

Kittle. An inversion of " Tickle". 

Tew. To plague, to weary. A. S., Tawian, to tug. 

Aumry. Shady. Fr Ombre. 

Out. Ought, anything. A. S., Awhit. " Too mich of 
owt's good for nowt." — Craven Proverb. 

Muck. Dirt. A. S., Meox. "Better hev a bairn wi' 
a mucky faace an wesh it nooas off." — Craven 
Proverb. 

Book. Bulk. "'Bout book o' my neif." L not sounded 



113 



as in balk, walk, &c. " Brick'' in Scotland. 
" Your tender buick I happit warm, 
Wi' a a mither's care." 

Shippon. A cow-house. From Sheep-pen. Shipinin 
Chaucer. 

Sage. G, hard. To saw. A, S., Saga. 

Shog. To ride at a slow trot without rising in the 
stirrups. From Shock, and perhaps more correct 
than jog. 

Outshut. An outbuilding. A. S., Scythan, to throw 
forward. " Some folks hes lile brains, an some's an 
outshut," i. e. an additional department for brains. — 
Craven Proverb. Hence also the expression, " To 
get shut of," is as correct as " To get quit of". 

Insense. To enlighten. An expressive word, and of 
obvious derivation. 

Speau. "Wean. Perhaps from Spoon. 

Sticklebutt. Immediately, quickly. As swiftly as an 
arrow piercing the butt, or mark. When the bow 
was the Saxon's weapon every village had its practis- 
ing ground, with two raised mounds on which the 
butts were placed ; and how commonly we find, to 
this day, a place in or about a village called the 
" Butts". Horton, Clapham, &c. 

Pryall and Ryall. Three together. A corruption of 
Triad. 

Hait. Hot. A. S., Hat. "Hait as tyre."— Douglas. 

Lee. A lie. " That war ane manifest lee*' — Douglas. 

L 2 



114 



" If leein wor choking thear'd be hard gasping/*—* 
Craven Proverb. 
Be, By. It was anciently written indifferently Be 

or By. 
Flite. To scold. A. S., Flytan. "Qua cannot hald 

thare pece are fre to flite/' — Douglas. 
Sile. To strain, as milk. A, S., Syl, filth. 
Hull. A small building. Goth., Hulgan, to cover. 
Whittle. To cut sticks. From the instrument, 

Whittle. A. S., Hwytel, a knife. 
Quarril. A pane of glass. Fr. Quarreau. 
Parlous. Perilous. "By'r Lakin a parlous fear." — 
Midsummer Night's Dream. Most commonly used 
with tale, or speech, in which case it may he par less, 
peerless. 
Tine. To shut. A. S., Tinian. 
Fest. To send out, or bind as an apprentice. A; 8. T 

Fcest, fixed. 
Fet. Fit. Hence Jettle, to mend. 
Schoo. She. A. S., Seo. 

" Albane 
Scho did behald amyd the fieldis plane." — Douglas. 
Wharfra. Wherefrom. 

" His feris lukis about on every side 

To se quarfra the groundin dart did glide." 

— Douglas. 
Lief. Have rather, A. S., Leof, participle of Lufian> 
to love. 



115 



" I had as lief not be, as live to be in awe 
Of such a thing as I myself." — Julius Ccesar. 
Wick. Alive. A. S., Cwic. 
Taah. Toe. A. S., Ta. 
Lig. To lie. A. S., Liegan. 
Stag. A young horse. A. S., Stigan, to ascend. 

Coming on, as the farmers say. 
Stiddy. An anvil. A. S., Stcedig, firm, fixed. 
Stirk. A young heifer. A. S., Stirc. 
Bout. Without. See Poddish. A. S., Be-utan, Be 
out. But is the same word, and now corruptly used 
for the ancient Bot, from Botan. 
" Bot thy werke shall endure in laude and glorie, 
But spot or fait condigne eterne memorie." 

— Douglas. 
Faut. Fault. Fr., Faute. 

Guilevat. Vessel in which beer is left to ferment. 
Perhaps from Gill, the Ground Ivy, Glechoma 
hederacea, a plant formerly much used in domestic 
brewing. Apropos of the word, a Craven Fable may 
close this little dissertation on Craven words. 

T'MOUSE IT GUILEVAT. 

Ane day thear wor a mouse tumelTd intut guilevat, 
an t'cat sat a watchin on't. When it wor like to drown, 
it ses tut cat, " If thoul help me out, an let me shak 
mesel, thou's he'mah." Saah t'cat agreead, an helpt it 
out, bud t'mouse ran off to it hole. Ses t'cat, " I thowt 



116 



thou sed I mun he' thah." " Hei !" says mouse wi' a 
gum, u Bud folk ses owt when ther i' drink" 

Dr. "Whittaker regrets that he was not able to retrieve 
any remains of traditionary poetry written by natives 
of Craven. " Their country/' he says, " was romantic, 
their manners pastoral, and their dialect poetical." 
There are a few remains of the kind current, but they 
are mere doggerel, and yet there is no doubt but that, 
approaching so nearly as it does to the Scottish, the 
Craven dialect might be a proper vehicle for the ballad, 
or the pastoral song, after the manner and the metres 
of the immortal Barns. 

The following may serve as specimens. 

TO A COVEY OF MOOEGAME. 

Iz't fear o' me at maks ye spring 
Wi sich a feaful flap ot' wing ? 

My bonny brood ! 
Lig saaf ith' beald ot' greenest ling, 

Yer dainty food. 

1'ze ower fond o' life mesell, 
An freedom too to gang an fell 

The likes o' ye. 
Bud thear's a day at I can tell, 

When mooargam dee. 

Whent' murdrous gun wi' sullen boom, 
Shall send ye tul an eearly doom, 

An ye's be med 
To lig it/ spooartsman's bag, ith' room 

Ov heather bed. 



117 

It izn't lang sin first ye fand 

Ther wings wad lift ye frae the land, 

Toth' realms ov air^ 
An soon ye'll fynd at shutter's hand 

Al wound 'em sair. 

Gay soon yer een nae mair sal] greet, 
The deawy mornhjg's misty leet, 
Ont' mooarland wide : 
An ye sail gang nae mair at neet 
Ith' ling to hide. 

In vain when cruel foes ye've kent, 
Ye'll trembling steeal alang the bent, 

Or cower ith' bog : 
"WT a' yer ways they're weel acquent, 

Baith man an dog. 

Thear's lambs at's killed wi't butcher's knife, 
An ducks bith' hand oth' farmer's wife 

Are doomed to dee : 
Ye' re favoured seur, to lose yer life 

Bith' Quality ! 

Bud od ye now, an dooant be flaad, 
I izn't ane of spooarting traad 

To hunt ye down ; 
I'ze nobbnt luk whar ye wor laid, 

An then I'ze boun. 



TO THE CRICKET. 

Ye gamsome louper, what inspires ye 
Wi' yer feckless chirping sang ? 

The dreest iv'ning nivver tires ye, 
An the neet-watch ne'er is lang. 



118 



Is't prompted be domestic joyance, 
An the hearthstaan ken'd sae weel ? 

Or cos ye fear nae cold's annoyance, 
Nor the girds o' clemming feel ? 

It's said ye're linked wi' ties mysterious 

To the haam ye lang frequent, 
An nowt can happen, gay, or serious, 

Bud ye're gifted weel to ken't. 

I'd fain believe it ; — mair betoken, 

Iv'ning hours ye love the best, 
When words ov househoud love outspoken 

Lull the jarring thowt to rest. 

Ah ! lile ye mak o't 'sun's bright peeping 
Through the oppen kitchen door, — 

Ye're ligging warm, an snugly sleeping 
Underneath the kitchen floor. 

Bud twileet comes, an shadows flicker 
On the snodly whitewesh'd wa' : — 

An then ye wakken wick an wicker, 
An yer merry playmates ca\ 

Then ower is a' the househoud stirring 
Then yer chirping sangs are rife, 

An chime wi't clock, and 't cat's low purring, 
An the voice o' bairn or wife. 

Oh ! could these haamly sounds sae quiet 
Break upon the wanderer's ear, 

I' lonesome haunts, or scenes o' riot, 
Seur they'd co' the starting tear. 

They'd bring to mind i* tones o' sadness 

A' the lang-forgotten past, 
The joys o' haam, an childhood's gladness, 

An the time o' parting last. 



119 



LIST OF FOSSILS. 



In the upper part of the lower scar limestone the 
greatest number of fossils of all kinds occur, and 
become gradually less plentiful in the higher series. 
The best localities for them are Withgill and Salthill 
near Clitheroe, Whitewell, Bolland, Settle and Giggles- 
wick Scars, Moughton, Norber, Horton Moor, Kibble, 
Malham Moor, Ingleton, Hesleden Gill, Highhill 
Lane, Scaleberg, Clattering Sykes, Tineley Hill, Long 
Preston, Newton Gill. Quantities of the vegetable 
Fossils belonging to the Coal measures are to be found 
among the shale at some old shafts near the Settle 
Railway Station. 



Actinocrinus dactylus 

Gilberts oni 
globosus 
polydactylus 
Agnostns radialis 
Amplexus Sowerbii 
Asaphus globiceps 

gemmuliferus 

granulatus 

cypridiformis 

qriadrilimbua 

raniceps 

seminiferus 

truncatulus 



Asaphus obsoletus 

2 New 
A"vicula tesselata 
radiata 
cycloptera 
Axinus obscurus 
Bellerophon tangentialis 
costatus 
hiulcus 
tenuifascia 
decussatus 
apertus 
cormi-arietis 
Urii 



120 



Bellerophon spiralis 

Woodwardii 
Buccinum — — — — 
Calamapora tenuisepta 
incrustans 
tumid a 
dentifera 
parasitica 
megastoma 
floriformis 
Catillus Kellyi 

obliquatus 
Oidaris vetusta 
Cirrus acutus 

tabulatus 
pentagonalis 
rotundatus 
pileospidcBUS 
spiralis 
Corbula senilis 
Cucullcea obtusa 
arguta 
Cyathocrinus mamillaris 
calcaratus 
bursa 
conicus 
distortus 
quinquangularis 
ornatus 
Cyatophyllum basal tiforme 
Cypripedia rhombea 
Cypricardia glabrata 
Ensyocrinus concavus 
Euomphalus pentangulatus 
catillus 
calyx 
bifrons 
pugilis 
cristatus 
Favosites capillaris 
Elustra paralella 
Gervillia lunulata 



squamosa 
laminosa 
inconspicua 
Gilbertsocrinus calcaratus 



Gilbertsocrinus mammillaris 
bursa 

Goniatites striatus 

sphoBricus 

crenistria 

obtusus 

striolatus 

truncatus 

implicatus 

reticulatus 

foraminosus 

micronotus 

Listeri 

Gibsoni 

excavatus 

calyx 

platylobus 

stenolobus 

mutabilis 

nitidus 

Gilbertsoni 

vesica 

Looneyi 

paucilobus 

Henslowi 

cycolobus 

umbilicatus 

subsulcatus 

mixolobus 

serpeutinus 

spirorbis 

rotiformis 

vittiger 

intercostalis 

carina 

evolutus 

incostatus 

Gorgonia — 

Inoceramus vetustus 
Gibsoni 

Isocardia oblonga 

unioniformis 

Lingula squamiformis 

Lithodendron irregulare 
sociale 
sexdecimale 
fasciculatum 



121 



Lucina laminata 


Nautilus bistrialis 


Lycocrinites clausus 


suleiferus 


anapeptamenus 


carinifems 


Jacksoni 


sulcatus 


Melania constricta 


tetragonus 


sulculosa 


subsulcatus 


reticulata 


Nucula cuneata 


scalaroidea 


tumida 


tumida 


undulata 


rugifera 


claviformis 


Melanopsis ?1 lelle 
Buccmum r ) r 


luciniformis 
Orthoceras cinctum 


imbricatum 


giganteum 


globulare 


filiferum 


acutum 


ovale 


sigmilineum 


unguis 


curvilinenm 


fusiforme 


rectilineura 


undulatum 


vittatum 


Breynii 


Metoptoma imbricata 


inequiseptum 


pileus 


Steinbaueri 


oblonga 


annulatum 


elliptica 


angulare 


sulcata 


dentaloideum 


Millepora rbombifera 


reticulatum 


interporosa 


G-esneri 


spicularis 


Patella scutiformis 


oculata 


sinuosa 


Modiola squamifera 


mucronata 


elongata 


retrorsa 


Longthornii 


curvata 


granulosa 


lateralis 


Natica ampliata 


Pecten ellipticus 


lirata 


bemisphoaricus 


elliptica 


papyraceus 


planispira 


dissimilis 


variata 


arenosus 


plicistria 


anisotus 


elongata 


plicatus 


tabulata 


stellaris 


Nautilus cyclostomus 


simplex 


dorsalis 


interstitialis 


tuberculatus 


deornatus 


goniolobus 


fimbriatus 


in gens 


granosus 
dubius 


globatus 


biangulatus 


Pentremites ellipticus 



122 



Pentemrites Derbiensis 


Pleurotomaria squamula 


oblongus 


monilifera 


astraformis 


limbata 


acutus 


gemmulifera 


pentangularis 


excavata 


orbicularis 


conica 


angulatus 
inflatus 


acuta 


vittata 


Pileopsis trilobus 


concentrica 


tubifer 


tornatilis 


striatus 


helicoides. 


neritoides 


ovoidea 


vetustus 


glabrata 


angustatus 


biserrata 


Pinna infiata 


serrilimba 


costrata 


8 New 


Platycrinus elongatus 


Poteriocrinus impressus 


contractus 


conicus 


nobilis 


granulosus 


loevis 


Producta Martini 


microstylus 


costata 


granulatus 


antiquata 


tuberculatus 


comoides 


rugosus 


Edelburgensis 


ellipticus 


latissima 


laciniatus 


muricata 


gigas 


quincuncialis 


Pleurorhyncus minax 


pugilis 


elongatus 


scrabricula 


trigonalis 


gigantea 


hibernicus 


concinna 


Pleurotomaria carinata 


lobata 


flammigera 


setosa 


tumida 


depressa 


expansa 


analoga 


sulcata 


pectinoides 


sulcatula 


mesoloba 


depressa 


punctata 


inconspicua 


fimbriata 


strialis 


larispina 


atomaria 


ovalis 


interstrialis 


lirata 


sculpta 


granulosa 


lirata 


spinulosa 


undulata 


pustulosa 


abdita 


rugata 


fusiformis 


Retepora membranacea 



123 



Retepora irregularis 
laxa 

flabellata 
flustriformis 
undulata 
nodulosa 
pluma 
Rostellaria engulata 
Sanguinolaria angustata 
tumida 
arcuata 
sulcata 
Spirifera cuspidata 
insculpata 
senilis 
crenistria 
septosa 
distans 
semicircularis 
stricta 
convoluta 
fusiformis 
rhomboidea 
triangularis 
trigonalis 
octoplicata 
attenuata 
bisulcata 
rotundata * 
pinguis 
hurnerosa 
duplicicostata 
integricosta 
planata 
ovalis 
trisulcosa 
triradialis 
ling uif era 
decora 
glabra 
symmetrica 
mesoloba 
lineata 
elliptica 
imbricata 



Spirifera fimbriata 

planosulcata 
expansa 
glabristria 
squamosa 
elongata 
globularis 
resupinata 
connivens 
filiaria 
arachnoidea 
radialis 
papilionacea 
Synbathocrinus conicus 
Syringopora ramulosa 
Terebratula hastata 
saccula 
pentaedra 
ambigua 
rhomboidea 
seminula 
acuminata 
mesogona 
reniformis 
pugnus 
sulcirostris 
pleurodon 
flexistra 
venilabrum 
excavata 
radialis 
antiquata 
proava 
Turbinolia fungites 
Turbo tiara 

semisulcatus 
biserialis 
Mancuniensis 
Turritella tenuis tria 
spiralis 
suturalis 
triserialis 
Unis acutus 

subcompressus 
Venus parelella 



124 



FLORA OP CRAVEN. 



The plants in the following list are to be found 
within a radius of from ten to fifteen miles around 
Settle, A large number of them cannot be included 
among the rarer species, but they are here mentioned 
in order to farther an interesting department of Botany, 
viz., the local and geological distribution of plants ; and, 
as the list is not intended to serve the purposes of the 
selfish eradicator, the localities have not been partic- 
ularly pointed out. The scientific Botanist may obtain 
every information from those of like tastes and pursuits 
resident in the neighbourhood. 



RANUNCULACECE 

Thalictrum minus, Gordale. 

flavum. Frequent. 
Ranunculus auricomus. Clab- 

dale. 
Trollius europoeus. Malham 

Cove, &c. 
Helleborus viridis. Feizor. 

foetidus. do. 
Aquilegia vulgaris. do. 
Actcea spicata. Ingleborough, 

Malham. 

NYMPHCEACECE. 

Nuphar lutea. Kibble. 



PAPAVERACECE. 

Pap aver dubium. Occasional. 

Rhceas. do. 

Meconopsis cambrica. Giggles- 
wick. 

Chelidonium majus. Horton, 
&c. 

Corydalis claviculata. Settle. 

Fumaria capreolata. do. 

CRUCIFERGS. 

Cheiranthus Cheiri. Skipton^ 
Bolton. 



125 



Thlaspi alpestre. Lead Mines, 

&c. 
Hutchinsia petroea. Malham 

Tarn. 
Lepidium campestre. Common. 
Cochlearia officinalis. Frequent 

alpina. do. 

Draba incana. Attermire. 

muralis. Malham, &c. 
Cardamine amara. Horton, &c. 
impatiens. Giggles- 
wick. 
Arabis thaliana. Settle. 

hirsuta. do. 
Barbarea prcecox. Stackbouse. 
Sisymbrium Sophia. Settle. 
Hesperis matronalis. do. 

RESEDACECE. 

Reseda luteola. Giggleswick. 
lutea. do. 

CISTACEGE. 

Heliantbemum vulgare. Settle. 

VIOLACE(E. 

Viola odorata* Settle Bridge, 
palustris. Horton. 
lutea. Malham Moor, 
amoena. Settle. 

DROSERACECE. 

Drosera rotundifolia. Helwith 

Moss. 

POLYGALAECE. 

Poly gala Tulgaris. Common. 

CARYOPHYLLACECE. 

Sap onaria officinalis. Austwick 
Silene inflata. Frequent. 

maritima. Kilnsey Crag 
and Whernside. 
Lychnis vespertina. Occasional 

Githago. do. 

Arenaria verna. Lead Mines. 
Stellaria nemorum. Rathmell. 



Stellaria uliginosa. Giggles- 
wick. 
Cerastium semidecandrum. 
triviale. 

LINACECE. 

Linum catharticum. Frequent. 

MALVACECE. 

Malva moschata. Bolton Abbey 
sylvestris. Frequent, 
rotundifolia. Thornton. 

HYPERICACECE. 

Hypericum androsoemum. 

Thonton-in- Lonsdale, 
perforatum. Frequent 
dubium. do. 

quadrangulum. do. 
humifusum. do. 
pulchrum. do. 

hirsutum. do. 

montanum. do. 

GERANIACEOE. 

Geranium phoeum. "Wharfe. 

sylvaticum. Bolton 
Abbey & Malham 
molle. Common 
lucidum. do. 

pratense. do. 

robertianum. do. 
dissectum. Frequent 
sanguineum. do. 

CELASTRACE(E. 

Euonymus Europeans. Frequent 

RAMNACEffi. 

Rhamnus cathartic us. Giggles- 
wick Scars. 

LEGUMINIFER(E. 

Spartiam scoparium. Rathme 
Ulex Nanus. do. 

Genista tinctoria. Giggleswick 
anglica. do. 



M2 



126 



Ononis arvensis. do. 

spinosa. Austwick 
Trifolium medium. Clapham 
procumbens. Settle 
nliforme. do. 

Hippocrepis comosa. Giggles- 
wick Scars 
Vicia sylvatica. Birkwith, 
Horton 
cracca. Common 
sepium. do. 

Orobus tenuifolius. Settle 

ROSACECE. 

Primus spinosa. Common 
insititia. Stainforth 
Padus. Stackhouse 
avium. Winskill Wood 
Spircea ulmaria. Common 

nlipendula. Kilnsey 
Crag 
Dryas octopetala. Arncliffe 
Agrimonia eupatoria Frequent 
Potentilla anserina. Common 
veroa. Kelcove 
tormentilla. Common 
fragrariastrum. do. 
comarum. Helwith 
Moss 
E-ubus chamcemorus. Ryeloaf 
saxatilis. Clabdale, &c. 
coesius. Springwood 
fruticosus. Common 
suberectus. Malham 
idoeus. Doukgill 
Rosa spinosissima. Cave Hole 
Wood 
Doniana. Helkswood 
villosa. Stackhouse 
tomentosa. Lodge Gill 
inodora. Braken Brow 
micrantha. Lodge Gill 
canina. Common 
sarmentacea. do. 
d ume tor um ? 



Rosa Forsteri. Giggleswicfc 
arvensis. Rathmell 

Sangnisorba officinalis. Fre«* 
quent 

Poterium sanguisorba. Frequent 

Pyrus malus. do. 

aria. Horton, &c, 
aucuparia. Common 

ONAGRACECE. 

Epilobium augustifolium. linn 
Gill 
rest. Common 
Circcea lutetiana. do. 

PORTULACEGE. 

Montia fontana. Common 

BERBERACE(E. 

Berberis vulgaris. Horton, 
Kelcove 

GROSSULAR1ACECE. 

Ribes rubrum Kirkby Malham 
petroeum. Malham Cove, 

and New Hall 
alpinum. Stainforth 
Grossularia. Frequent 

CRASSULACE(E. 

Sedum Rhodiola. Penyghent 
Telephium. MalhamCove 
villosum. Swarth Moor 
acre. Common 
reflex um. Settle 
sexangulare. Malham 

Sempervivum tectorum. Fre- 
quent 

SAXIFRAGACECE. 
Saxifraga umbrosa. Linn Gill 
aizoides. Chapel-le- 

dale 
oppositifolia. Peny- 
ghent 
granulata. Frequent 



127 



Saxifraga tridactylites. Com- 
mon 
hypnoides. Malham, 
&c 
Chrysosplenium oppositifolium. 
Common 
alternifolium. 
Occasionally 

TTMBELLIFEROCE. 

Hydrocotyle vulgaris. Settle 
Conium maculatum. do. 
Apium Graveolens. Kibble 
Helosciadium nodiflorum. 

Giggleswick 
Pimpinella saxifraga. Common 

magna. do. 

Sium angustifolium. Settle. 
(Enanthe crocata. Rathmell 
Heracleum sphondylium. 

Common 
Daucus carota. Feizor 
Torilis anthriscus. Settle 
Anthriscus sylvestris. do. 
Chcerophyllum temulentum. do. 
Myrrhis odorata. Frequent 

CAPRIFOLIACECE. 

Sambucus ebulus. Austwick 
Viburnum opulus. Horton, &c. 

RUBIACEGE. 

Galium verum. Common 
cruciatum. do. 
palustre. do. 
aparine. do. 

saxatile. Giggleswick 

Scar 
pusillum. Malham, &c. 
mollugo. Rathmell. 
boreale. Kilnsey and 
Malham 
Sherardia arvensis. Common. 
Asperula odorata. Clabdale, 
&c. 



DISPACE(E. 

Scabiosa succisa. Common 

columbaria. Settle 
Knautia arvensis. do. 

COMPOSITE. 

Tragopogon pratensis. Settle, 

Horton, &c. 
Hypochreris radicata. do. 
Lactucamuralis. Settle 
Crepis virens. 

succisoefolia. Settle 
paludosa. do. 

Hieracuim pilosella. do. 
murorum. do. 
sylvaticum. do. 
Lawsoni. Malham 
prenanthoides. 

Stainfortb 
boreale. Settle 
inuloides. do. 
rigidum. do. 
umbellatum. do. 
Taraxacum palustre. do. 
Serratula tinctoria. Clapham 
Carduus Marianus. Bolton 
Abbey 
heterophylus. Stack- 
house 
Carlina vulgaris. Settle hills, 

&c. 
Centaurea cyanus. Giggleswick 

scabiosa. Arncliffe 
Eupatorium cannabinum. 

Giggleswick. 
Tanacetum vulgare. Swawbeck 
Gnaphalium dioicum. Giggles- 
wick 
sylvaticum. do. 
uliginosum. El- 
droth 
Solidago virgaurea. Frequent 
Senecio sylvaticus. Cockit 
Moss 
viscosus. Frequent 
eruccefolius. Giggles 
wick 



128 



Senecio Saracenicus. Ingleton 
Pyrethrum parthenium. Fre- 
quent 
Chrysanthemum leucanthemum 
Common 
inodorum. 
Giggleswick 

CAMPANULACECE. 

Campanula latifolia. Settle. 

rotundifolia. Common 

ERICACECE. 

Erica tetralix. Common. 
Andromeda polifolia. Horton. 
Vaccinium myrtillus. Mosses ; 

frequent. 

Vitis Idoea. do. 

occycoccos. do. 
Pyrola minor. Clabdale, Malham 

JASMINACECE. 

Ligustrum vulgare. Giggles- 
wick Scars. 

GENTIANIANCECE. 

Gentiana campestris. Giggles- 
wick. 
amarella. do. 

Erythroea centaureum. do. 
Menyanthes trifoliata. Horton. 
Polemonium cceruleum. Gordale 

CONVOLVULACECE. 

Convolvulus sepium. Bathmell. 

SOLANACECB. 

Hyoscyamus niger. Ingleton 
<fcc. 

SCROPHULARIACE(E. 

Verbascum Thapsus. Crow 
Nest. 

Veronica arvensis. Common, 
serpyllifolia. do. 
anagallis. Giggleswick 
Beccabunga. do. 



Veronica officinalis. Common, 
hederifolia. Frequent, 
agrestis. do. 

montana. Crow Nest 

<fec. 
polita. Giggleswick. 
Bartsia alpina. Malham. 
Euphrasia officinalis. Common. 

odontites. do. 

Melampyrum pratense. Giggles- 
wick. 
sylvaticum. do. 
Pedicularis palustris. Frequent. 

sylvatica. do. 
Schrophularia nodosa. Settle, 
aquatica. do. 
Ehrharti. Gar- 
grave &c. 
Antirrhinum majus. Skipton 

Castle. 
Linaria cymbalaria. do. 

vulgaris. Occasionally. 
Mimulus luteus. Horton. 

OROBANCHACECE. 

Orobanche minor. Malham. 
Lathrcea squamaria. Crow Nest 
Wood. 

LAMIACECE. 

Lycopus Europoeus. Frequent. 
Verbena officinalis. "Wennington 
Mentha rotundifolia. Babble. 

viridis. do. 

rubra. do. 

acutifolia. Settle. 

gentilis. Giggleswick. 

piperita. do. 

arvensis. do. 

Thymus serpyllum do. 

Origanum vulgare. do. 

Clinopodium vulgare. do. 
Teucrium scorodonia. do. 
Lamimn album. Gargrave. 

incisum. Settle. 
Galeopsis tetrahit. Common, 
versicolor. Settle. 



129 



Stachys Betonica. Frequent 
palustris. Settle 
sylvatica. do. 
Glechoma hederacea. Frequent 
Prunella -vulgaris. Common 
Scutellaria galericulata. Rath- 
mell 

BORAGINECE. 

Myosotis repens. Penyghent 

3. Common 
Lithospermum officinale. Crow 

Nest 
Symphytum tuberosum. Rubble 
Borago officinalis. Giggles wick 
Anchusa sempervirens. Wharfe 

<fec. 

PINGUICULACEffi. 

Pinguicula vulgaris. Common 

PRIMULACECE. 

Primula farinosa. Malham &c. 
Lysimachia nummularia. 

Giggleswick 
nemorum. do. 
Anagallis arvensis. Common 
tenella. Rathmell 

PLUMBAGINACECE. 

Armeria maritima Stockdale 

PLANTAGINACEGE. 

Plantago major. Common 
media. do. 
lanceolata. do. 
maritima. Kilnsey 

AMARANTHACECE. 

Chenopodium Bonus Henricus. 
Common 
rubrum. do. 
Atriplex patula. Ribble Bank 

POLYGONACECE. 

Polygonum bistorta. Giggleswick 
viviparum. Feizor 



Polygonum amphibium. Runley 
Bridge 
Persicaria. Giggles- 
wick 
hydropiper. do. 
aviculare. do. 

convolvulus. 
Rumex crispus. Common 

aquaticus. HelwithMoss 
obtusifolius. Common 

THYME LAC EG3. 

Daphne laureola. Feizor 
mezereon. do. 

EMPETRAGEffi. 

Empetrum nigrum. Helloth 

Moss <fec. 
Euphorbia exigua. Common 
peplus. do. 

URTICACEffi. 

Urtica dioica. 

Parietaria officinalis. Bolton 

Humulus Lupulus. Giggleswick 

AMENTIFERffi. 

Salix pentandra. Giggleswick 
fragilis. Settle 
viminalis. 
caprea. Settle 
cotinifolia, 
fusca. 

herbacea. Penyghent 
repens. Common 
procumbeus. 
&c, &c, <fec. 

CONIFER(E. 

Juniperus communis. Moughton 
Taxus baccata. Gordale cfec. 

ORCHIDACECE. 

Listera cordata. Ryeloaf 
ovalis. Frequent 
nidus avis. Giggleswick 

Epipactis latifolia, do. 



130 



Epipactis b. ovalis. Giggleswick 
palustris. Stackhouse 
ensifolia. Ingleton 
Orchis mascula. Common 
ustulata. Settle 
pyramidalis. Langcliffe 
latifolia. Common 
maculata. do. 
Gymnadenia conopsea. 
Habenaria latifolia. HelwithMoss 
b. clorantha. do. 
viridis. Giggleswick 
albida. do. 

Ophrys apifera. Skipton 

muscifera. Settle 
Cypripediumcalceolus. Arncliffe 

IRIDACECE. 

Iris pseudacorus. Giggleswick 

LILIACEGE. 

Allium arenarium. Kilnsey 
carinatum. Feizor 
vineale. Giggleswick 
Convallaria maialis. Settle 

multiflora. Calton 
polygonatum. Mal- 
ham 

TRILLIACECE. 

Paris quadrifolia. Frequent 

MELANTHA.CECE. 

Colchicum autumnale. Giggles- 
wick 

ALISMACECE. 

Butomus umbellatus. Gargrave 

and Settle 
Triglochin palustre. Coekit 

Moss. 

FLUVIALES. 

Potamogeton densus. Kibble 
pectinatus. do. 
crispus. do. 
perfoliatus. do. 



Potamogeton natans. Ribble 

ARACECE. 

Arum maculatum. Common 

JUNCACECE. 

Juncus glomeratus. Common 

effusus. do. 

lamprocarpus. do. 

squarrosus. do. 

Luzula sylvatica. do. 

campestris. do. 

congesta. do. 

Nartbecium ossifragrum. 
Giggleswick 

CYPERACECE. 

Schoenus nigricans. Ingleton 
Blysmus compressus. Giggles- 
wick 
Scirpus sylvaticus. Settle 
multicaulis. do. 
coespitosus. do. 
Eripborum vaginatum Giggles- 
wick 
polystacbion. do. 
latifolium. do, 

Carex divisa. Settle 

pulicaris. do. 

stellulata. do. 

ovalis. do. 

curta. do. 

remota. do. 

intermedia.do. 

teretiuscula. 

vulgaris. 

flava. Settle 

pallescens. do. 

fulva. do. 

binervis. do. 

laevigata, do. 

panicea. do. 

strigosa ? 

sylvatica. Settle 

pendula. do. 

proecox. do. 

pilulifera ? 



131 



Carex hirta. Settle 
ampullacea. do! 



Tesicana. 
paludosa ? 
riparia ? 



do. 



GRAMINA. 

Phalaris arundinacea. 
Milium effusum. 
Agrostis alba. Giggleswick 
Arundo phragmites. do. 
Sesleria coerulea. Giggleswick 

Scar 
Aira flexuosa. Common 

caryophylla. do. 
Arena alpina. Settle 
pubescens. do. 
flavescens. do. 
Triodia decumbens. do. 
Kceleria cristata. do. 
Melica nniflora. Giggleswick 

nutans. do. 

Molinia ccerulea. do. 

Catabrosa aquatica. do. 

fluitans. do. 

rigida. do. 

Poa alpina. Ingleborough 

subcoerulea. 

nemoralis. Giggleswick 
Balfourii. Ingleborough 
Briza media. Common 
Cynosurus cristatus. Common 
Dactylis glomerata. do. 

Festuca ovina. do. 

duriuscula. do. 

pratensis. do. 

loliacea. do. 

Bromus giganteus. do. 

asper. do. 

sterilis. do. 

mollis. do. 

Triticum repens. do. 

caninum. do, 



Lolium perenne. 
Nardus stricta. 



do. 
do. 



FILICES. 

Ceterach omcinarum. Malham 

Rocks 
Polypodium vulgare. Common 
Phegopteris. Clap- 

liam 
Dryopteris. Giggles- 
wick 
calcareum. Settle 
Allosurus crispus. Fountains 

Fell 
Cystopteris fragilis. Common 
angustata. Stainforth 
dentata. Common 
Aspidium lonchitis. Settle 

aculeatum, Ingle- 
borough 
lobatum. Winskill 

Scar 
lonchitidioides. 
Common 
Lastrea Oreopteris. Giggles- 
wick 
Filix-mas. Common 
rigida. Ingleborough 
multinora;' Settle 
Athyrium Filix-fcemina. 

Common 
Asplenium yiride. Settle 

trichomanes . C ommon 
Adiantum-nigrum. 

Ingleton 
Ruta-muraria. 
ScolopendriumTulgare. Common 
Blechnum boreale. Giggleswick 
Pteris aquilina, Common 
Botry chium lunaria. Giggleswick 
Ophioglossum rulgatum. Stack- 
house 

PTERIDIDOIDES. 

Lycopodium clavatum. Ingle- 
borough 
alpinum. do. 
Selago. do. 

Selaginoides. 
Giggleswick 



132 



Equisetum Telmateia. Kibble 
Bank 
arvense. Frequent 
sylvaticum. do. 
palustre. Common 



Equisetum limosum. Kibble 
Bank 
variegatum. Swarth- 
moor. 



INDEX. 



Addingham, 7 

Aire, 1, 38 

Airton, 36 

Amerdale, 30 

Appletrewick, 28 

Arncliffe, 30 

Attermire, 58 

Austwick, 86 

Barden, 25 

Barnoldswick, 9 

Beamsley, 17 

Bell Busk, 34 

Ben Rhydding, 8 

Birkwith, 83 

Black Foss, 82 

Boardley, 47 

Bolton Abbey, 16-25 

Bolton-in-Bowland, 10 

Bowders, 86 
Bracewell, 8 
Bransgill, 71 
Breadagarth, 103 
Broughton, 8 
Browgill, 82 
Buckden, 32 
Buckhaw, 55 
Bumsall, 27 
Cairns, 56, 101 
Calton Hall, 36 
Castleberg, 7, 50 
Catterick Foss, 61 
Cautley, 82 
Chapel-le-Dale, 94 
Clabdale, 90 
Clapham, 87 
Clattering Sykes, 46 
Coniston, 29 
Cracow, 11 
Crownest, 86 
Crummock, 86 



Dangerous Cave, 53 

Dent, 82 

Diccan Pot, 75 

Doe, 92 

Douk Cave, 31, 98 

Doukerbottom, 29 

DoukgiU, 69 

Draughton, 6 

Ebbing and Flowing Well, 53 

Echos, 38, 57 

Elso, 12 

Embsay, 15 

Eshton Hall, 11 

Feizor, 86 

Flasby, 12 

Fountains Fell, 73 

Gaping Gill Hole, 91 

Gargrave, 11 

Gatekirk, 97 

Gearstones, 80 

Giants' Graves, 72 

Giggleswick, 51 

Gingle Pot, 95 

Gingling Cave, 104 

Gisburn, 8 

Gordale, 42 
Grassington, 30 
Greta, 93 
Greygarth, 103 
Halton Gill, 31 
Hanlith, 36 
Hawes, 81 
Hawkswick, 30 
Hellen Pot, 75 
Hellifield, 63 
Hesleden Gill, 72 
Hetton, 12 
Hodder, 9 
Horse Head, 31 
Horton, 67 



134 



Hubberholme, 32 
Hurtle Pot, 95 
Ilkley, 7 

Ingleborough, 86, 91, 99 
Ingleborough, Cave, 88 
Ingleton, 92 
Ivescar, 98 
Jackdaw Hole, 83 
Janet's Cave, 41 
Katnot Cave, 80 
Kelcowe, 52 
Kettlewell, 31 
Kilnsay, 28 
Kingsdale, 103 
Kirkby Malham, 34 
Langcliffe, 62 
Langstrothdale, 32 
Lawkland, 85 
Linn Gill, 82 
Littondale, 30 
Long Churn, 79 
Long Preston, 63 
Lunesdale, 104 
Malham, 36 
Malham Cove, 37 
Malham Water, 45 
Marton, 8 
Meir Gill, 101 
Mitton, 9 
Moughton, 68 
New Houses Tarn, 83 
Norber, 86 

Oughtershaw Tarn, 32 
Overborough, 99 
Ox Scar, 55 
Penyghent, 72 
Raisgill, 32 
Rainsber, 10 
Raven wray, 102 
Kibble Head, 80 
Ringle Pot, 74 
Robin Hood's Mill, 57 



Rowtand Hole, 104 
Ryeloaf, 57 
Rylstone, 12 
Sannet Gill, 61 
Sawley, 9 
Scaleber, 58 
Scoska Moor, 73 
Sedbergh, 82 
Sel Gill, 83 
Selside, 74 
Settle, 48 
Simon Fell, 68 
Simon Seat, 17 
Skipton, 1 
Smearside, 68 
Spa, 6, 64 
Stackhouse, 57, 62 
Stainforth, 57 
Stainforth Foss, 61 
Staircase Cave, 53 
Stockdale, 57 
Thirl Pot, 70 
Thornton-in- Craven, 10 
Thornton-in-Lonsdale, 101 
Thorns Gill, 80 
Thorpe, 28 
Threshfield, 13 
Thund Pot, 71 
Trow Gill, 91 
Yictoria Cave, 59 
Weathercote, 96 
Wenning, 87 
Wensleydale, 82, 105 
Wharfe, River, 16 
Wharfe Gill, 86 
Whernside, 98 
Whernside-in-Kettlewell, 74 
"Wigglesworth, 64 
Winskill, 61 
Yockenthwaite, 31 
Yordas Cave, 103. 






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